Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Petzl Fifi hook for haul bag retrieval
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Justin Lofthouse
From Utah
Sep 7, 2013
The Platform

The topic of discussion of this thread is the Petzl Fifi hook.

Petzl Fifi hook
Petzl Fifi hook


My question involves how to use it for haul bag retrieval.


Petzl Fifi
Petzl Fifi


A few key questions:
1) When you reach the top of the pitch do you just start hauling and it just pops off the anchor, or do you pull it sort of tight and then lower it out after you return to the anchor?

2) Does the haul bag just hang out at the anchor on the fifi hook with no backup attachment to the anchor? If this is the case, is there any reason why a fairly heavy haul bag would be lifted off the fifi hook and then haul bag fall the full length of the haul line, putting it's full weight onto the lead climber?

3) Is this thing really that useful or is it just a cool idea that is not really worth it?


FLAG
By Ryan N
From Lone Tree, Colorado
Sep 7, 2013
RJN

Good topic, I'd like to know from someone with personal experience too. You should change the title to fifi for haul bag retrieval or something to let the other big wallers know.


FLAG
By Rob Dillon
Sep 8, 2013

Hudon knows about this. On supertopo. Search it.


FLAG
By nbrown
From western NC
Sep 8, 2013
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

I think the only practical use in this situation is if you wanna haul simultaneously while you rap back down the pitch (2 separate ropes of course). Otherwise, I don't think there's any point?


FLAG
By Rob Dillon
Sep 8, 2013

Which is super handy. But not without attendant risk.


FLAG
By Mark Hudon
Sep 8, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.

Yes, you can hang your bags from any bolt, pin, nut or sling (the best option for reasons I'll explain later but I'm way tired right now after a week of climbing and hiking (18 miles over three days) to write too much in depth about it) and pull it off, cleanly, easily and safely.

I would tie a butterfly knot and clip that to the Mallon shown in the second photo. I'd leave a long enough tail so that I could tie a second knot and clip it directly to the bag (I trust that Mallon and the little bit of metal above the Mallon only so much.)

I've taken a bags of weights and hung it from that hook on my 45 degree climbing wall. I've kicked that bag, pushed it and swung it for everything it was worth, in every way I could and it NEVER fell off. IMHO there is virtually no chance that bumping the bag, or even kicking the bag will ever cause it to depart whatever you have the bag hung on.

Go to www.elcappanos.com and watch my Slippery Knot video to see a real slick way to safety the bag on the hook. Even though I don't think the bag will ever fall off the anchor when using this hook, I still recommend safetying it.

While hauling loads to Mammoth over three days this spring, (a total of 18 pitches jugged and hauled) I hung bags from the anchors using a Petzl Fifi and hauled them off successfully every time (I didn't use a safety).

Petzl Fifi in use.
Petzl Fifi in use.


FLAG
By ZackBay
Sep 8, 2013
By Rap Rings

Check out this link and see if the video helps at all

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1249450/Continuos-Loop-Meth>>>


FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Oct 25, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

I had two piglets hanging on two of these hooks [with maillon rapides through the top] which "rode up for free" as I rappelled down after solo leading a pitch.

It worked really well for me almost every time, and was emphatically worth the "cost" of leading with a separate skinny rope, plus my regular haul line.

Got good photos and videos which I will eventually post up.


FLAG
By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 25, 2013

Any reason I shouldn't use any old fifi? I have an old steel fifi that a quick link fits through the hole normally used for a retrieval string. I have hauled a few pitches using this standard fifi with quick link and it worked nice, but curious why Petzl chose to make a long slot rather than just a single hole up top where it will pull the hook up and off the anchor?


FLAG
By Mark Hudon
Oct 25, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.

Okay, so there I am on Zenyatta Mondatta, soloing and on the crux pitch. The pitch starts off with 15 or so hook moves about 10 or 15 feet horizontally from the anchor and then starts to rise up at about a 45 degree angle. I'm about 20 feet from the anchor when the weight of my rope starts to pull the rest of the rope out of its rope bag. I'm sitting there on a hook with no chance in hell to get back to the anchor before the full weight of the falling rope pulls the slippery knot through and falls onto the Petzl Fifi holding the whole rig onto the anchor. With any other fifi, the force of the rope's weight would have hit the TOP of the fifi and would have nicely rotated the hook off the anchor, causing my tag bag to fall the length of the rope and ripping me off the rock. With the Petzl Fifi, the full force of the falling rope came onto the fifi at the BOTTOM of the hook.

As far as just hanging your bag on an anchor, if there is NO CHANCE it will every be caused to rotate off (as when I hung my bags on my solo hauling mission up to Mammoth this spring), then sure, no problem.


FLAG
By DrApnea
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 25, 2013

Didn't think about that scenario. Thanks. I will have to switch it out when I get a chance.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.