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Petzl Ange draws, or BD Hoodwire, or what?
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By cms829
Mar 27, 2012
 <br />First Ascent (roped solo) of "Choss N Moss" C2+ (Clean Aid) @ sunset.

Hey guys. Heading to the NRG next week and only have a few draws that I use trad climbing every now and then. Anyway....May pick up 5 or 6 and been looking at the Ange draws. Am I missing the point of the new petzl biners aside from a weight reduction which is a non issue to me as far as sport climbing is concerned? What are the actual benefits? Anyone use them yet and if so how do they clip? Otherwise I am looking at the BD hoodwire draws as I use some hoodwires on my trad rack and like them. Theres lots of options....just looking for something worth buying. I dont plan on pullin on em, so the dogbone width doesnt concern me, but I could see them slim draws being difficult to clip as they flop around?

Thoughts?


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By randy88fj62
Mar 27, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

cms829,
I own hoodwire, Ange L, and Ange S biners. Both being keylock style wiregates is what drew me to them. I am a Petzl fanatic when it comes to their caving, canyoneering, and climbing gear. Their Ange S carabiner is way too small to use for anything else other than clipping to a rope. I have big hands and managing such a small carabiner is a pain for me. The Ange L is more along my line and I use 10 of them to rack my cams so they donít snag when I reach for them on a climb. I only own one hoodwire which I use to clip my camera to my harness. It has a wider profile but works fine and is easy to clip and use. If I was going to buy a set of draws mainly for trad and a little sport then I would lead towards the ange draws because they seem to take up less space than the hoodwires. If I was going to be doing a lot of sport then I would probably lean towards the hoodwires since they are easier to manage with my large hands.
If you plan on using the biners to hold stoppers or multiple items then I would lean towards the hoodwires since the stoppers would slide off smoothly. The ange design has a sphere on the end of the gate which still snags a bit when sliding things off of it. This has mainly happened when I have my camera hooked to it with thin cord.
Both a good designs and I would recommend both. Itís a toss up and personal preference between both of them. Hope my rambling has helped you in some way.
-Randy


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By jhn payne
Mar 27, 2012
"Ragin Cajun" 5.12c Jackson Falls, So Il.

I got two of the Ange S draws to see how I would like them, I have had them going on two months and have let a lot of my friends climb on them to see what everyone thought. I haven't climbed with anyone who had a problem with them, most liked them and my long standing partner is going to get some. I got them because I was refreshing my trad rack, but since I mostly sport climb I just added them to the mix of Spirits. I have large hands which I thought might be a problem but so far I really enjoy clipping them, smallness just isn't noticed. I think a lot of R&D went into them, very well made, I'll be getting more. I also have for my trad rack some BD OZ which are OK but the Ange solves the hook nose issue.


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By "H"
From Manitou Springs
Mar 27, 2012
Axes glistening in the sun

I bought a couple of the Ange S before I saw the L. I just think they look cool. The S works best for sport. Trad it's ok, but making clips with a bigger rope can be tough. S definately not for ice climbing with twin ropes. Ditto on the spirits. I love anything that's not an oval as that's what I learned to lead with.


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By cms829
Mar 29, 2012
 <br />First Ascent (roped solo) of "Choss N Moss" C2+ (Clean Aid) @ sunset.

I cant decide...so i'll prob just use my friends draws for this trip. I was however at the shop last night and some of the camp draws caught my eye. Not sure of the model but they were dual wire gates


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