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Jailhouse Rock
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Petty Theft 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Doug Lantz, Ben Burnam 1988
Page Views: 2,492
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Feb 15, 2004

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Brad King approaching the chimney crack at the top...

Description 

This route is on the south side of the jailhouse rock canyon. Look for two chimney cracks with a small crack running up between them. Start slightly to the right of the smaller crack. Climb up to the left crack via an obvious ramp. Up the left crack until you see a well defined ledge to step over to the middle crack. Follow the middle crack until it fades out, then chimney up the right wide crack to the chains on the left side of the chimney.

Protection 

Standard rack - stoppers and cams from .5 to 4". This route has some of the best stopper placements around.


Photos of Petty Theft Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing some of the chimney moves near the end of th...
Doing some of the chimney moves near the end of th...

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By Vincent Greene
Feb 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun easy route that protects easily. There are enough bomber stopper placements that this could easily go with a passive only rack. I think it is closer to 5.7 than 5.6.
By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Totally 5.3, no harder no way. great climb though.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

very cool and unusual route for mount lemmon. lots of jams to be had, or you can just stem and climb the fact if jamming isn't your thing. even the easy, unprotected chimney at the top is tons of fun.
By Lana dude
Jan 4, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Good for a new trad leader with standard rack. Smooth rock.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 15, 2016

The route description above with all the talk of crack-switching is confusing. Don't most people just climb the most obvious, continuous crack from bottom to top? It's about 5.5 or 5.6, a fun crack/chimney with loads of big supplemental edges and ledges. Protects well aside from the finishing chimney, bring a couple #3 camalots if you want to really sew it up. There is gear in the final chimney too, but it's not as obvious.

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