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Finger Lickin' Area
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Petty Larceny 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, Ken Yager, Grant Hiskes, 1984
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Dec 1, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: GEAR BETA ALERT, Black Alien and Grey Metolius Off...

Description 

An excellent crack for those just breaking in to the grade. Sometimes it is wet at the bottom, and partially sand filled higher up. Don't let this stop you. Pull through the crux at the bottom. Finger lock and jam your way to the top, then rappel from slings around a bush or walk off to the right.

Location 

This is the left of three cracks at the bottom of the Finger Lickin' area. The first to be reached on the approach trail.

Protection 

Single set of gear.


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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 18, 2010

I decked off this in '07 when a foot chip busted and my gear ripped a flake on the right (uninjured, thankfully). No temptations to stick gear behind that flake anymore, just bust the crux right off the ground and the locks open up to decent fingers at about 15'.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 10, 2012

A lead would be exciting for sure. I think a crash pad would be a smart call...
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 10, 2012

I would say this is NOT a great climb if your breaking into the grade. Deck potential on the hardest moves down low is not a good combination for a budding .11 leader.
By BFK
From: San Francisco
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Enjoyable route with a bouldery start finishing with some great casual jamming. If you're tall you can place some small pieces at the base of the crack while still in the left crack to protect the crux moves.