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 ADVANCED
Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
left of 5.10 flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Petrelli Motors 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,564
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (95)
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Bill eyeballing the next finger locks two-thirds o...

Description 

Find this route toward the right-hand side of the developed area of Blue Gramma Cliff, just to the left of some large petroglyphs, in a sandy, light-colored section of rock. Just to the right of said petroglyphs is the route Moon Goddess Revenge, a more alluring flip-flop dihedral.

Petrelli Motors, a relatively short climb (60'), starts in a sandy tips-to-first-knuckle crack. Place a few TCUs in the start and move up through the crux to where the the rock becomes slabby, but more solid. A few move moves take you to the second section on some soft footholds (trust them?) where you can stick in a few more cams and go for the anchors.

The route is worth doing if you are there and are ready to pack it up, but is certainly no destination-maker.

Protection 

Small cams and TCUs , mostly 0.4 - 0.75" with a few pieces up to good hand size.


Photos of Petrelli Motors Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb leads 'Petrelli Motors (5.10-)' on Blue ...
BETA PHOTO: Tony Bubb leads 'Petrelli Motors (5.10-)' on Blue ...
Myke nearing the first crux.
Myke nearing the first crux.
Boots Barto onsights Petrelli Motors.
Boots Barto onsights Petrelli Motors.
Winter in the Creek,2003
Winter in the Creek,2003

Comments on Petrelli Motors Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Apr 19, 2006

This was my favorite climb at IC. So much fun and great bouldery moves. I made it super exciting by not bringing enough small cams.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006

The Bloom guidebook is off on the sizes for this route. I think he recommends .5"-2.0", but there's nothing larger than a 0.75 (green) camalot, and that's in the first 15' of the route. All small stuff after that.
By montejr21
From: Yucaipa, CA
Jun 1, 2009

I absolutely love this route and it's one of my all time favorites. Perfect fingers - must have climbed this 5 or 6 times.
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009

A good pitch. Rope grooves make good side pulls for the last move!
By Erica Hernandez
From: GOLDEN, CO
Jun 2, 2012

Great fingers near the bottom. There's cool petroglyphs to the right of this climb but just a little further to the right, and up a bit high, there's life-sized petroglyphs of three people. Really cool!
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
May 6, 2013

Great finger climb. Boulder start and a few lay back moves in the sequence.