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Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
Left of 5.10 Flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Petrelli Motors 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,857
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Bill eyeballing the next finger locks two-thirds o...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Find this route toward the right-hand side of the developed area of Blue Gramma Cliff, just to the left of some large petroglyphs, in a sandy, light-colored section of rock. Just to the right of said petroglyphs is the route Moon Goddess Revenge, a more alluring flip-flop dihedral.

Petrelli Motors, a relatively short climb (60'), starts in a sandy tips-to-first-knuckle crack. Place a few TCUs in the start and move up through the crux to where the the rock becomes slabby, but more solid. A few move moves take you to the second section on some soft footholds (trust them?) where you can stick in a few more cams and go for the anchors.

The route is worth doing if you are there and are ready to pack it up, but is certainly no destination-maker.

Protection 

Small cams and TCUs , mostly 0.4 - 0.75" with a few pieces up to good hand size.


Photos of Petrelli Motors Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb leads 'Petrelli Motors (5.10-)' on Blue ...
BETA PHOTO: Tony Bubb leads 'Petrelli Motors (5.10-)' on Blue ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Myke nearing the first crux.
Myke nearing the first crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Boots Barto onsights Petrelli Motors.
Boots Barto onsights Petrelli Motors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Winter in the Creek,2003
Winter in the Creek,2003

Comments on Petrelli Motors Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Apr 19, 2006

This was my favorite climb at IC. So much fun and great bouldery moves. I made it super exciting by not bringing enough small cams.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006

The Bloom guidebook is off on the sizes for this route. I think he recommends .5"-2.0", but there's nothing larger than a 0.75 (green) camalot, and that's in the first 15' of the route. All small stuff after that.
By montejr21
From: Yucaipa, CA
Jun 1, 2009

I absolutely love this route and it's one of my all time favorites. Perfect fingers - must have climbed this 5 or 6 times.
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009

A good pitch. Rope grooves make good side pulls for the last move!
By Erica Hernandez
From: GOLDEN, CO
Jun 2, 2012

Great fingers near the bottom. There's cool petroglyphs to the right of this climb but just a little further to the right, and up a bit high, there's life-sized petroglyphs of three people. Really cool!
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
May 6, 2013

Great finger climb. Boulder start and a few lay back moves in the sequence.

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