Petrelli Motors 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Nov 4, 2001 |
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Myke nearing the first crux.
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Description Find this route toward the right-hand side of the developed area of Blue Gramma Cliff, just to the left of some large petroglyphs, in a sandy, light-colored section of rock. Just to the right of said petroglyphs is the route Moon Goddess Revenge, a more alluring flip-flop dihedral.
Petrelli Motors, a relatively short climb (60'), starts in a sandy tips-to-first-knuckle crack. Place a few TCUs in the start and move up through the crux to where the the rock becomes slabby, but more solid. A few move moves take you to the second section on some soft footholds (trust them?) where you can stick in a few more cams and go for the anchors.
The route is worth doing if you are there and are ready to pack it up, but is certainly no destination-maker.
Protection Small cams and TCUs , mostly 0.4 - 0.75" with a few pieces up to good hand size.
BETA PHOTO: Tony Bubb leads 'Petrelli Motors (5.10-)' on Blue ...
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Boots Barto onsights Petrelli Motors.
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Bill eyeballing the next finger locks two-thirds o...
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Winter in the Creek,2003
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| Comments on Petrelli Motors |
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By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Apr 19, 2006
| This was my favorite climb at IC. So much fun and great bouldery moves. I made it super exciting by not bringing enough small cams. |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006
| The Bloom guidebook is off on the sizes for this route. I think he recommends .5"-2.0", but there's nothing larger than a 0.75 (green) camalot, and that's in the first 15' of the route. All small stuff after that. |
By montejr21
From: Yucaipa, CA
Jun 1, 2009
| I absolutely love this route and it's one of my all time favorites. Perfect fingers - must have climbed this 5 or 6 times. |
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009
| A good pitch. Rope grooves make good side pulls for the last move! |
By Erica Hernandez
From: GOLDEN, CO
Jun 2, 2012
| Great fingers near the bottom. There's cool petroglyphs to the right of this climb but just a little further to the right, and up a bit high, there's life-sized petroglyphs of three people. Really cool! |
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
May 6, 2013
| Great finger climb. Boulder start and a few lay back moves in the sequence. |
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