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 ADVANCED
Topknot
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Grand Jam T,TR 
Grand Jam Left T,TR 
Grand Jam Right T,TR 
Petite Arete T 

Petite Arete 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Tony B on May 8, 2008

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Deb getting in a short pitch.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is another route to add to the other 3 if you are up there. It is not worth a trip, but if you are on top, you might as well do 4 routes for 100 feet climbing, as 3 for 75. This is a 4th route and is the second hardest of them. While I can find no documentation of it, it seems likely that it has been done many-a-time.

Climb up onto a large spike of rock on the arete and establish yourself onto some footholds. This initial 'flake' looks loose at first, but inspection showed that it was well attached at the base, and part of the main cliff. Use a horizontal to protect and stabilize, then continue to the top of the rock. This is more of a boulder problem than anything, but it has a terrible landing in TV-sized jumbled rocks on a slope, so perhaps roping up is for the better.

Location 

On the left-most corner of the Topknot, left of the Grand Jam Left, this is the arete is featured with spikes and flakes. Climb this arete.

Protection 

A few small cams or nuts. Watch out so as not to place them behind weak flakes.


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