|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Craig Parsley & Pete Wilkening, Nov 1973|
|Submitted By:||Roger Linfield on Jul 7, 2006|
|Comments on Pete's Handful||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Either a hold has broken off (my suspicion as there is a scar where a hold would make sense) or this is a bit of a sandbag. Three of us today all found the crux move harder than 10a.
The crux involved tenuous shallow chimneying on a poorly placed finger jam to make the reach to a better finger jam. And one of us was 6'+. A clear scar is visible on the rock above the first finger jam, and it really looks like there was once a hold there.
By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|This route should be re-named "Pete's Handful of $hit." Maybe I'm pissed because I had such a difficult time with it. For sure harder than nine.|
By Craig Parsley
Nov 8, 2007
|Andy is correct...there once was a handhold where the scar now remains. The climb is called "Pete's Handful" because on the first follow, Pete Wilkening pulled the hold off. He kept it I think. It did make the climb much more difficult sans the hold.|