Pete's Farewell 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Pete Gibb and Dave Gilyeat |
| Submitted By: | Rafiki on Jun 28, 2007 |
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Description Pete's Farewell is the Pitchoff classic!
Someone once told me the story behind the route's name. After the FA, Pete slipped off the top of the crag. Thinking Pete was dead, his partner looked over the edge to find him about 50ft below on a ledge screaming about his ankles.
Pitch 1 - Climb the 30ft easy face to a ledge. 5.2
Pitch 2 - Traverse the obvious line out left and up the dihedral to a belay next to the small pine. The lower traverse into the dihedral is slightly harder. 5.6 65ft
Pitch 3 - Walk across the ledge to an awesome handcrack and jam your way to the top. 5.7 60ft
Pitch 1 and 2 can be combined easily. To descend, move right at the top into a small cave and use the slung boulder to rap down into a chimney. There's a set of anchors at the end of the chimney on the face. You may want to stay on rappel to reach the anchors. Rap to the start of the route.
Location This route starts on top of the practice slab. The approach trail on the left side of the crag will bring you to this big ledge.
Protection Great and obvious protection the entire way. Bring a few large cams. #3-4 BD
John Ciccone on the easy first pitch of Pete's Far...
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Greg leading the 2nd pitch of Pete's Farewell.
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John Ciccone leading the last pitch of Pete's Fare...
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Scott Arno climbs the traverse on P2(5.6) of Pete'...
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Me leading the last pitch on a cold and windy Apri...
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Matt topping off the last pitch
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| Comments on Pete's Farewell |
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By Aaron Hubbell
Jun 29, 2007
| P3 is an awesome pitch with solid jams and great exposure. Plus: The amusement factor is pretty high when the tourists stop in the pulloff to rubberneck at you. |
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 8, 2008
| Serious about the bigger cams. You're looking at a HUGE swing onto your belayer before you get that first #4 in. I just had one with me and it was pretty exciting sliding it up as I went before I could throw in something in the #2 range. |
By Michael G
Aug 28, 2009
| single or double rope rap? Thanks. |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.7+
| Michael,
A single 60m rope will get you to the ground from the chimney rappel station. |
By Greg Kuchyt
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.7
| You can acceptably protect the climb with a single rack to 3". Bring more if you want to sew any section up. |
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 8, 2011
| awesome climb. My favorite adirondack route this far. Stay low on the traverse, it's easier. Gaining the crack is a cool stem move. Other than that it's an exciting breeze. A truly G climb, imagine that. |
By Matt Baer
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.7
| Classic route in the ADK's with great views! First pitch is short but damp. The second pitch is fun I recommend traversing above the little roof system, much easier. The third pitch is really exposed and makes for a great climb! |
By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| For those of you used to the fixed gray alien cam being at the first belay, it wasn't there when i went up on saturday 5/19/12. Just beware that the belay now will eat up even more of your little gear. |
By kenr
Jul 19, 2012
| P3 - unless you've got rather large hands, the lower section of the crack of P3 is too wide for effective hand-jams -- but for me it went pretty easily as a layback, especially with jamming/camming my feet a little into the crack. |
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Oct 23, 2012
| Doing "The Lonely" instead of P1 and P2 of Pete's is a fun way to go. A #4 is not necessary, but i think having two #3s is a good idea for the money pitch. Great climb. |
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