By rogerbenton Aug 21, 2012
| looking for opinions as to whether the ratings at PK are on par with the rest of the gunks or are they a little softer. i did a few 8's, an 8+, a 9+ and a couple 10's a few weeks ago at PK and it felt like similar grades at the trapps last season gave me more trouble. i don't have near enough experience to be able to judge a route rating so what do you all think? -one last point- i know the pk routes are generally a lot shorter so pump factor is lower, i'm talking about the crux moves themselves. thanks! |  FLAG |
By Auto-X Fil From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY Aug 23, 2012
| Go try Skink. |  FLAG |
By Kevin Heckeler From West Sand Lake, New York Aug 23, 2012
| I'd say a touch soft, but compared to the Trapps almost everything everywhere else is soft. lol |  FLAG |
By rogerbenton Aug 24, 2012
| definitely looking to hit up skink and the rest of the golden wall next time i go to pk. |  FLAG |
By Gunkiemike Aug 24, 2012
| It really depends on the specific route at PK; there isn't an overall bias hard or soft IME. Reach Around and First Day (with the righthand option at the bulge) are def. hard for 5.7. The arete on the S. Pole OTOH is nowhere near the 5.9 it's given (it's easier). Mya is harder than 5.10. Seams Like Fun is a grade easier than 5.8. Get the idea? |  FLAG |
By Gunkiemike Aug 24, 2012
| Auto-X Fil wrote: Go try Skink. Believe it or not, there is a 5.6+ way for people of normal height to climb Skink, but it's a real gimmick of a move that most folks never see. |  FLAG |
By jkd159 Aug 24, 2012
| Gunkiemike wrote: Believe it or not, there is a 5.6+ way for people of normal height to climb Skink, but it's a real gimmick of a move that most folks never see. Ok, I'll bite... what's the move? I'm 6'1" so Skink has never been hard for me. But I've seen so many short people struggle with that move. What is the super secret beta? |  FLAG |
By rogerbenton Aug 24, 2012
| wait wait don't tell me, i'm headed up there tomorrow... i just remember getting shut down by some 9's and 10's last fall and the last time i hit those grades it was at pk a couple months ago and it felt much easier. it was my first time at pk so i was just wondering if i had a great day or the routes are soft. |  FLAG |
By Jim Sweeney Aug 24, 2012
| You need to expand on your research. Go to the Lost City. |  FLAG |
By Taino From South Salem, NY Sep 5, 2012
| jkd159 wrote: Ok, I'll bite... what's the move? I'm 6'1" so Skink has never been hard for me. But I've seen so many short people struggle with that move. What is the super secret beta? Go to the right on top of the big flake, up at the right-facing edge, and back left. Awesome move on lead. Enjoy! T (5'6") |  FLAG |
By Gunkiemike Sep 10, 2012
| Super secret Skink beta SPOILER ALERT Directly above the left edge of the flake, right where you're coming up in other words, is a 4 ft high right facing corner of sorts that has a sloped "dish" shaped top. The idea is to high step your left foot onto this little slopey ledge. The hands you need to be able to do this aren't obvious, which is why folks miss it, I think. And it's still a huge reach (sorry, Tai). |  FLAG |
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