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Peters Out - Roof Variation 
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Peters Out - Roof Variation 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Erikson, S. Wunsch, B. Godfrey
Season: Faces S/SW
Page Views: 139
Submitted By: Tony B on May 30, 2011
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Joseffa above the crux roof of the Peters Out roof...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This and the Werner Brothers Roof together make the jaunt up to the top of H.E.R. worth taking. While the Werner Brothers Roof is a better route overall, this is a reasonably good climb with a technical crux that is improbable, gymnastic, and surprisingly good. The route is 5.10, but the subgrade may be according to height.

Start up as for the normal route "Peters Out" but as that climb approaches the roof and goes left around the arete, go just right under the roof to the obvious crack. Pull the crux (no spoilers here) and re-establish yourself in the crack over the roof. Head up and toward the arete again before a jutting tower above forces you out diagonally right for a few more fun and exciting moves.

To descend, rap to the North from a station a few feet up in a large pine tree.


Location 

This route starts at the West arete at the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge and climbs the right side of it to the roof, goes up and right through the crack in the roof, then back up towards the arete for a distance before splitting back right again under a second bulge/tower.


Protection 

A single set of cams and stoppers with some longer slings.



Photos of Peters Out - Roof Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Joseffa about to finish up on the Roof Variation of Peters Out. Photo by Tony B. 5/2011.
Joseffa about to finish up on the Roof Variation o...
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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Aug 31, 2013

There's also a super-quick walk-off option that works for everything from "Howard Placebo" to "Peters Out". The walk-off meanders north then west, hugging the cliff, and deposits you right back at your packs. As of 8-31-13 there was no rap station established on the tree Tony mentioned in the route description.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Aug 31, 2013

Sure seems to me that THIS is the obvious line. The 'variation' should be the escape left, but "are we splitting hairs here?" Haven't done the escape scenario, but the roof is fun stuff.