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El Capitan Base Routes
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Ahab T 
Bluffer, The T 
Captain Hook, Left T 
Captain Hook, Right T 
Delectable Pinnacle, Right  T 
El Cap Tree T 
Footstool, Right, The T 
Freeblast T 
Gollum T 
Hardly Pinnacle T 
Indubious Battle T 
La Arista T,S 
La Cosita, Left T 
La Cosita, Right T 
La Escuela T 
Little John, Left T 
Little John, Right T 
Mark of Art T 
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael S 
Moby Dick T 
Moby Dick, Left T 
Party Mix T 
Peter Left T 
Peter Pan T 
Pine Line T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left T 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right T 
Reeds Leads T 
Sacherer Cracker T 
Salathe (pitch 1) T 
Seedy Leads T 
Short But Thin T 
Simulkrime T,TR 
Slack ( center), The T 
Slack, Left, The T 
Sparkling Give-away T,S 
TRON S 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) T 

Peter Left 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mead Hargis and Kim Schmitz (1971)
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jan 13, 2012

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the right side of the Peter Pan pinnacle, comprised of two pitches (which can be linked into one) up an intimidating looking right-facing corner.

The climb was originally cleaned out by Peter Haan after which he left to work in the Bay Area for a bit. Schmitz returned with Hargis to snag the first ascent. Hence the name, Peter Left.

The route begins a pitch off the ground. Several options exist. Lost Boys is a 5.9 corner over to the right. Tinker Bell is a small pinnacle which can be climbed via it's left side @ 5.7, or right side @ 5.9. Or the most direct route and probably the best (and the one we did) is Indubious Battle, an 11a corner almost directly below. All of these routes will lead to the ledge system which the climb begins from.

Pitch one will be the crux for most people. The crack starts off about 5" but quickly shrinks to perfect #4 Camalots. For people with huge hands this will be a nice fist crack, but for most it will be an offwidth too tight for a knee. At least it's in a corner and the friction is really good. There's much harder 10b offwidths in the Valley (see: The Slack, Left). Above there's a 2 bolt anchor and a small ledge. Since I lugged such a massive rack up here and still hadn't placed most of it, I opted to just clip one of the bolts and keep climbing.

The second pitch starts off with what the guide book calls "5.9 hands". I certainly did a lot more fist jamming through this section than anything else. Eventually you'll get up to some flakes that are hanging out of the crack. There was a section here that I thought was probably the crux of this pitch, where you're sort of grappling with the flakes. Then it's a short easy section of liebacking up a wide crack to reach the base of the squeeze chimney. If you're a big dude and cheated...err...fist-jammed your way up the first pitch offwidth, then this is where the climb will seek it's final revenge. If you can't squeeze through it it will probably really suck since the corner is quite steep through this section. After that it's a bit of easy low angle offwidth to the ledge and top of the Peter Pan feature.

To descend, make two double rope rappels straight down from the bolt on the left side of the ledge which is around to the left of the ledge the climb ends on.

Protection 

Doubles from 2-4" and a 5" piece. If you want to link the pitches it might not be a bad idea to bring 3 #4 Camalots if you have them.


Comments on Peter Left Add Comment
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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 13, 2015

This time I link p1 and p2, but next time I would make it in two pitches instead, to make rack smaller.
If you not linking p1 and 2, you can take just 2#4 and one #5.
The crux of the route for me was also reaching the flakes, and than fighting for security in the upper flare which was very tight for me to be fully in, but not as tight to force me into layback it.
We were lazy to bring second rope and climb with 80m. - this works on rappel if you use intermediate bolts ( without rings) on PeterLeft p1 and than bolt with webbing on Idibulous Battle. Get to the ground with 3rappels instead of two
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