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Great Chimney Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 
Coup d'Etat T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Dirty Day TR 
Get Jacked T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Hot Beef Injection T 
Match the Snatch T,TR 
Milking the Bull TR 
Overlooked T,TR 
Pale Rider T 
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 
Practice Chimney  T 
Son Of Great Chimney T 
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 
Whipping Boy T 
Wild West Homo T,TR 

Perverted Inspiration 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Burt Lindquist, First Lead: Isaac Therneau (see comments)
Page Views: 1,011
Submitted By: Isaac Therneau on Oct 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Devils Lake. Perverted Inspiration. Leaves with a ...

Description 

I chose to start with the same beginning as "Whipping Boy" as this adds an additional 15ft of climbing. Once through the initial 15ft continue diagonally up and right to the obvious ledge. From the ledge you follow the arete using underclings and insecure climbing to the top. Expect the climbing to get harder as you progress with several small cruxes.


Location 

The arete right of "Whipping Boy"


Protection 

Same pro as "Whipping Boy" to the ledge. From the ledge you can place several pieces, but there is scant/marginal pro afterwards to the top with a long run-out and a high potential for decking if one falls.



Photos of Perverted Inspiration Slideshow Add Photo
Devils Lake. Perverted Inspiration. Pumpy pro placing in the horizontal (crux of the route). Photo: Isaac Therneau. October '08.
Devils Lake. Perverted Inspiration. Pumpy pro plac...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 2, 2013
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 14, 2008

Isaac:

I am thinking this may be a true first ascent at the lake if you have gotten it from ground up. I have led it but with pre-placed gear in the mid climb and crux area..... so not really a true claim.
I think this is one cool route TR or Lead... Give it a name as it doesn't have one in any of the guides I think nor is it even mentioned?? Any one else know anything??

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 15, 2008

That would be incredible and completely unexpected. I admit the climbing was intense and the crux for me was placing the protection. I'll certainly wait on assuming this to be the case until hearing from more of the experienced climbers at the lake. Thanks for pointing the route out in one of your earlier posts, as you mentioned it's an excellent climb with a very different style than most at the lake.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Awesome job, Isaac! Congrats! Sure felt like 5.10c/d to me when we tried it on TR last September.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 15, 2008

That throw with your right hand up to the tricky side pull with the left hand up in the undercling (where the only gear is for the crux by the way) and your feet jacked up and smeared as high as you can get them does seem a bit harder then 5.9+ when you think about it. All that on top of doing the initial moves of "Whipping Boy" and then the awkward body tension inducing moves from the ledge up to this crux move doesn't help either. You are probably right Kris about it being 5.10c-ish. I was just thinking that the whole climb doesn't feel as hard as "Whipping Boy" to the left.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 15, 2008

It's hard to compare the cruxs of the two as they're very different styles. The 5.9+ required powerful moves in between mediocre holds, while Whipping Boy was a delicate climb requiring you trust your feet with small hands. I have to agree with Kryz that the climb felt harder than 5.9. The climb kicked my ass on TR before figuring out the sequence.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nice job Isaac.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Burt -- I think that the move you're talking about is a hard 5.10 but I also think that the Stretcher on Pedestal Buttress is hard 10 (instead 5.9+) for example. So that kinda goes against the way things are rated at the Lake. Great route regardless.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 15, 2008

It's incredible the list of heinously sandbagged routes at the lake. I noticed by your photos Burt that we were climbing at the same bluff sat. My initial plan was to lead Dead Tree and Tardis, it's hard to forget seeing that neon green rope. It'd be cool to climb together sometime.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 16, 2008

That rope belongs to a friend of mine and yes it sure is "loud".
That was such a warm balmy day for early Oct.. Not totally out of the ordinary of course but just felt super warm. We went up to West Bluff originally to do lead routes on "Lost Face" but we couldn't believe the number of wasps flying around on that face... no one wanted to go near it. We ended up skipping around to a few different areas right up until dark. Another super fun day at DL. I will be out this Sat. again. DL climber end of the season get together down at S. Shore pavilion after every one is climbed out.

By Tradoholic
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very tricky, good gear at your feet when doing the crux, but none after making for a solid runout. I fell on OS wondering how the hell to reach the final under-clings.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 14, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree with Nick, very tricky. Once you figure it out though, it ends up being a fun and interesting climb.

By Michael Sullivan
From: Madison, WI
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

So I was impressed by this climb. I didn't expect it to be all that interesting but doing it from the start of Whipping Boy made for a reasonably lengthy little climb. More interesting to me was the problem of giving it a grade. I figured out all of the moves on the first tie-in but kept getting messed up at the downward facing flake high on the route. It ended up taking me quite some time to get the final sequence right. Once executed, I found it to be at least as hard as Baker Street and Alpha Centauri and certainly not as straight forward. Though requiring less strength on the hardest move, this one took me more tries to TR clean than Wild West Homo (admittedly WWH is the epitome of my climbing style). In short, more value than expected. Cool climb.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

Seemed like an 11 to me ... I was schooled!

Not as powerful as Coup d'Etat, but also requires more balance and has less positive holds. Whipping Boy is certainly easier, to me.

Reminds me most of Pussycat.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 20, 2013

Once you figure the sequence and are prepared for the intense body tension this route requires it falls back into the 5.10+ range. Nobody I have either talked with or belayed on this has on-sighted it! The feet placements are absolutely critical as to the sequence you put them in and then the quick execution of movement off of them to the higher set of holds crucial.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I "onsighted" this in September 2011, but in reality I think Isaac told me about some of the moves a couple years previously, reducing it to a mere flash, alas, since I kind of knew what to expect. Also, it was a TR ascent (lame!)

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 21, 2013

I clearly haven't talked to everybody who has ever climbed this route TR or not. I am thinking it's been only led ground up just a few times by the folks in this thread so a TR ascent is typical. Placing gear on the lead ground up would make it even harder cause the climb requires at it's easiest to be clutching with all limbs.... I think everybody agrees it's really good DL climb and interesting it sat somewhat not noticed for so long...

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

So the challenge is thrown. Anyone care to try to onsight lead it? No peeking at the photos!

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 21, 2013

OOOoo It could be that Issac and/or Kris may have already onsight led it... I am not super sure. Maybe they will chime in and raise the stakes or not depending on their response.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Nope, no OS-lead in our case. We TR'd it first. Serious respect to whoever onsights this on lead. Ground is pretty close on this one.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Jul 2, 2013

I belayed Henning on an onsight lead attempt. He ended up down-climbing before the undercling much to my relief.