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Royal Arches
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Peruvian Flake 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Morris, Kevin Leary, Bill Taylor.
Page Views: 3,079
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Maria firing Peruvian Flake.

Description 

This climb is down and left of the start of "Royal Arches Route", and just right of the creek coming from Royal Arches Cascade.
Climb a flake and thin crack to a two bolt anchor.

Protection 

Thin.


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By Jorge
Mar 20, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

There are no bolts at the top of this route. There is an easy walk off.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 20, 2007

Super fun. Crux is easy to protect with a couple of small cams. 105' rap to ground from fixed slings.
By Herndon
Feb 11, 2010

I call this the easiest 5.10 on Earth. Definitely worth doing, though.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Mar 18, 2012

The two moves of 5.9 on Peruvian Flake make this one of the best leads for climbers who are trying to break into the 5.10a grade.

From the Ahwahnee parking lot, follow the horse trail toward Washington's Column. Take a left just past the first stream and follow a climber's trail up toward the waterfall. Follow the base of the cliff to the right to find the start of the climb.

Bring a standard rack. Include up to a #4 camalot for the bottom flake. The crux is a good quality finger crack half way up the climb.

Walk off to the left.
By Teun
Jun 4, 2013

This route is like a puppy, cute at first, then it tries to bite you, but it can't with its tiny teeth, so then it just rolls over to get its belly scratched!
By Cimbing Ivy
Jun 6, 2013

varied in size and character from section to section but lots of fun nonetheless.

the thin finger crux is not sustained nor polished and takes bomber gear. may i spill gear betas - green aliens!!