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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Tie Die S 
Yuppie Love S 

Personal Jesus 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Howe, Keith Maas 1990
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Struggling with the lower face.

Description 

The last line of bolts off the ledge. Personal Jesus is an awkward climb down low, with the arete (I assume it is on) forcing you into reachy slopey sidepulls. Once you hit the horizontal crack, it becomes more straightforward technical face climbing. I felt the crux could have been at bolt 2 or attaining the anchors. There is deck potential on blowing bolt 3, so beware.

Location 

The last route on the ramp.

Protection 

4 draws and 2 for the chains. Rap down.


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Reaching for thin, thin edges.
Reaching for thin, thin edges.

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By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Very committing moves between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Fight the barn doors with careful footwork.