Persistent rotator cuff/shoulder pain

It's been a week since being diagnosed with a moderate strain of the rotator cuff from a walk-in clinic. I was bouldering only 3-4 days a week for months up to that point and have ceased basically all activity. I can't sleep and the tenderness persists all day. Supposedly this gets better but everything I see online has symptoms for a 50+ year old, I'm 27. What else is there to do except for ice and ibuprofin? I'm supposed to be going to Moab in 2 weeks...ahhh!

A good exercise is to flood a affected area with nutrient rich highly oxygenated blood. This rapidly AIDS the healing process. To do this you need can of soup. Lay on your good side with the can in the hand of the affected shoulder. Bend your elbow 90 degrees and slowly lift the can up. Be gentle and careful . Do about 50 reps. Do about 5 sets. You should start to feel a "burn". In the shoulder. Try adjusting the angle or body position until you hit the sore spot perfectly. More weight is not better. You are not trying to build muscle you are rapid healing an injury.

Interesting, I've never heard that about ibuprofen having that effect.

The soup can thing sounds interesting too, I'll have to give both these suggestions some research and check back before (and after) my trip to Moab in a few weeks. Hoping to be fully recovered by then.

Thanks!

Look up on DPM.com excersise routine every climber should do. It is about 10 things takes about 30 minutes once you have it down. I was non functional for about a month or two. Started this routine and now I'm back on my way to CLIMBING what i want

You should go to a PT. The shoulder is a complex series of muscles and tendons, and the implications for screwing it up are pretty serious for your climbing. I too have battled with shoulder problems. A PT will more accurately assess your problems and provide corrective strengthening exercises unique to your condition. Some exercises suggested on the Internet will not be a solution to your specific condition, and may in fact make things worse. I'd schedule one now before you get to Moab and really set yourself back!

Short term use of NSAIDs has not been proven to impair tissue healing and in fact it is typically quite beneficial. NSAIDs can make a big difference in immediate pain and recovery improvements.

"In regard to soft tissue healing, there is insufficient evidence of a detrimental effect when using either NSAIDs or COX-2 inhibitors at standard doses for ≤2 weeks. For soft tissue to bone healing, a limited number of studies demonstrate impairment in healing. However, with respect to bone healing, indomethacin appears to have a clear detrimental effect, with less substantial evidence for other NSAIDs." ( ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/227…)

Since the OP has pain AT REST, this indicates inflammation which can directly benefit from the use of NSAIDs. I would consider taking them for anywhere from a few days to 2 weeks. The only drawback is that you need to keep the dose in your system at anti-inflammatory levels around the clock. This usually means taking OTC 600-800 mg 3x/day, maybe less if you have Rx strength pills. Although honestly the most I can usually get myself to do is 2x/day and I still have seen big improvements.

I would not recommend doing active range of motion exercises as offered here by others when you have that much pain and inflammation (unless you tolerate it well somehow). The best thing is to do isometric exercises if anything, in particular performing external rotation of the affected arm against a wall.

This helps the muscles pull the humeral head into a more optimal position in the joint, which frequently can help reduce pain. But note: if this type of isometric work hurts, don't do anything for now. Also, if you are a side sleeper, sleep at night with a pillow under the arm of the affected shoulder. This will keep it in a less stressful position.

Not sure about your Creek trip outlook. The Creek will always be there; your shoulder could get more damaged if you try too much too soon. That should be determined by your medical professional.

As a person who has experienced three RC surgeries I say this: Go see a PT, they can give you some "workouts".... much like the soup can weight deal ( I have used a 1 lb hand weight) you need to get blood flowing to it. Do not give in and let your shoulder FREEZE due to inactivity. The PT might give you some relief... but if the sucker still hurts after 30 days or so... You have a big problem. Then you must see a good doc (not some ER doc, a shoulder doc is needed) ......

One of my friends did the PT thing and started to feel better, but not 100% better... he worked and worked and started climbing again, back to 5.12 even...then one day he was doing a big move and his shoulder almost exploded!!!!

His shoulder doc (after mega surgery) explained to him that the PT exercise really helped the other muscle groups mask the root cause... partial tear RC...that left it weak and subject to more damage. It did finally come completely off of the bone!!!!!

I see your 27.... if you wish to still be climbing when your 47. Get this fixed (surgery if torn) ASAP and then don't be in a big rush to get back to rockclimbing again. I find that it takes almost 1 year to get full use back 100%.... in the mean time, take up hiking Mts, that keeps you aerobic and helps healing.

Best of luck with it.

EDIT TO ADD: What Aerili said is gold.... And after you get the surgery you get to learn how to sleep sitting in a chair for a few weeks.