|449 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 710 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.11 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Steve Rydalch (alt Leads) May 30th 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jun 4, 2009|
BETA PHOTO: A) Return Of the Crocks. 5.8 B)Faith Hope and Clar...
A climb on good rock that has a very thin but well protected crux .On a very warm day the FA party had numerous "slips" from the crux,perhaps less difficult in cooler conditions? This Sinister Slab area now has a collection of some of the best pure slab routes on the Reef.Starts about 50'up to the left of the climb Faith Hope and Clarity, small cairn. Look for two thin dark vertical intrusions
P1)Three pro bolts on this pitch the first at about 35'.From the second bolt climb straight up and the third bolt will come into view. Continue up to double anchors. 160' 5.8-R
P2)Go straight up very easy rock to where the slab steepens .From here climb at 5.5 for about 30' to double anchors.200' 5.5/6.
P3) Straight up passing one bolt to a line of four bolts which forms the crux section (30' of sport climbing!) . Above the forth bolt the climbing eases, climb passed three more pro bolts to double anchors. 170'5.11
P4)Continue straight above, two short 5.7 sections passing a bolt at about a 100'then to double anchors (same anchors as route to the left "Return of the Crocks")180' 5.7+R.
Descent:-Two raps from these anchors,a scramble to top of first pitch ,then to ground. Note from the top of P4 one can forth class up open slabs to the summit of the formation and great views
Sinister Slab Area . Approach from a pull off about 1/4 mile before the entrance to Three Finger Canyon. Hike to the north for about 20 mins. See photos of the crag .
Quick draws . Two 60m ropes. slings
Paul on first pitch
Steve on first pitch
Steve at the top of pitch two
Paul starting the crux section of pitch three.
Paul just above crux section
Two Fingers after the crux section close to Three ...
Steve on the pitch four.
Top of the climb preparing to rap.
After the climb a pool in Three Fingers Canyon
Camp at Three Fingers Canyon
The terriers waiting in comfort
Dawn at the Reef ... Time to go home...........
View of Sinister Slab area taken from the Three Fi...
Looking down the southern end of the slabs ."Surfi...