Perpetual Motion 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Tony Yaniro, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002 |
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Plugging in the #1 on Perpetual Motion
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Description An absolutely classic overhanging hand crack. You'll wish it were three times as long. Toward the right side of the Perpetual Motion Wall two cracks form a giant "V". The left crack is Perpetual Motion, the right is Gross Chimney. A bulging thin hands bit at the start gets the crux out of the way early. Plug perfect hands (and occasional cams) up the overhanging wall while the pump clock ticks away. It widens just a bit at the top, but that means you're almost done with it. The view from the top is awesome, and you probably won't find a line at the base.
Protection Cams in the handjam range (2, 2.5, 3), plus something for the anchor up top.
BETA PHOTO: Phil in the Crux of Perpetual Motion
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A beautiful, and solid, line.
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Larry Stone, 1983 (nice pants)
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Perpetual Motion
Photo by Darshan Ahluwalia
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| Comments on Perpetual Motion |
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By Ben Craft
Apr 1, 2003
rating: 5.10d
| I wish there was more hand jam cracks like this in the park.
Watch out for birds if you do this in the evening. |
By namascar
Nov 15, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| Steep, thin hands. UFF!! However, if you have problems in the thin hands section (like me), there is a side pull and an edge on the left of the crack. |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 2, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d
| As I recall, you can take the bite out of the crux by fist jamming the slot that makes up the thin hands section.... if you have a 4" fist that is. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 1, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| It is a gorgeous splitter, but when we were there (circa 1997) the bottom section was full of guano. Short, even for J-Tree |
By Manjushri
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| I found this to be quite slimy toward the bottom, especially through the crux. Not sure if the culprit is pasted chalk, some kind of excrement or a combination of both (much poo is present at the base of the cracks here). The condition detracted somewhat from the climbing, but it is still an awesome splitter. |
By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008
| Very tough start for me. Also a lot of bird poop at the beginning. Once through the start up higher got tough, I went to plug in a #3 and I was getting pumped and the cable came off the clip on the cam I cursed. I quickly grabbed a #2 cam which was a little to small,it worked I clipped in and then fell off cam held. I look down at my friend, and told him man you need to fix your cam and then laughed. What a day that was. It was my 10 year anniversary climbing at Joshua Tree. Feb 2007 |
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