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 ADVANCED
Right Side Gully
Select Route:
Adaptive Expectations S 
Capitalism & Freedom S 
Classically Liberal S 
Consumption Dysfunction S 
Free to Choose S 
Invisible Hand S 
Natural Rate of Unemployment S 
Permanent Income Hypothesis S 
Rose T 

Permanent Income Hypothesis 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (January 2007)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,316
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jan 11, 2007

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Romain & Alberto, two economists, on "Permane...

Description 

Airy and exposed climbing up one of the most striking aretes in the Fortress.

The crux of the route is right off the ground, passing the first bolt (5.9+). The remainder of the route is steep and sustained (5.8). The last 40 feet are unbelievable!

A 60m rope is an absolute MUST as the route itself is approximately 55m long and the rappels are 30m each.

Location 

"Permanent Income Hypothesis" is located in the center of the Fortress, on the huge arete immediately behind and uphill from "Free to Choose."

APPROACH
The best way to approach the start of the route is to climb the first pitch of "Free to Choose." From the P1 anchor, traverse a narrow ledge left to the start of "Permanent Income Hypothesis" (about 80 feet).

DESCENT
(Note: the rappel line is 10 feet to the right of the route. It is not possible to rappel the actual arete without risking a dangerous swing.) Rappel from chains down the gully to the right of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." 30m down the gully is a grassy ledge with bolts. A second rappel will get you back to the start of the route (see photo for more detail). From the start of the route, traverse a narrow ledge to the P1 anchor of "Free to Choose." Make one more rappel to the ground

Protection 

16 bolts plus bolted anchors. All bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts.


Photos of Permanent Income Hypothesis Slideshow Add Photo
Romain Wacziarg on P.I.H., at the Fortress
Romain Wacziarg on P.I.H., at the Fortress
Romain Wacziarg airs it out near the top of P.I.H....
Romain Wacziarg airs it out near the top of P.I.H....
Matthew Fienup nears the top of "Permanent In...
Matthew Fienup nears the top of "Permanent In...
Romain Wacziarg climbs through the first crux of &...
Romain Wacziarg climbs through the first crux of &...
Rap route for PIH, some opportunities for a stuck ...
BETA PHOTO: Rap route for PIH, some opportunities for a stuck ...
Romain Wacziarg enjoys stunning arete climbing on ...
Romain Wacziarg enjoys stunning arete climbing on ...
A) Free to Choose (5.8) B) Permanent Income Hypoth...
BETA PHOTO: A) Free to Choose (5.8) B) Permanent Income Hypoth...
Permanent Income Hypothesis and the related rappel...
BETA PHOTO: Permanent Income Hypothesis and the related rappel...
The top portion of PIH seen from the anchors at th...
The top portion of PIH seen from the anchors at th...
Richard Shore at the summit block of Permanent Inc...
Richard Shore at the summit block of Permanent Inc...
Romain Wacziarg high above Hwy.33 on the upper por...
Romain Wacziarg high above Hwy.33 on the upper por...
Romain Wacziarg on the upper reaches of Permanent ...
Romain Wacziarg on the upper reaches of Permanent ...
View of the arete of Permanent Income Hypothesis, ...
BETA PHOTO: View of the arete of Permanent Income Hypothesis, ...
Permanent Income Hypothesis, the Fortress
Permanent Income Hypothesis, the Fortress

Comments on Permanent Income Hypothesis Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 18, 2014
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jan 11, 2007

It is important to note that Romain and I simply made the First KNOWN Ascent of this route. Two pieces of fixed gear indicate that an attempt was made to climb this arete in the 80s. Other than these two placements, the route felt pristine (there had been little or no cleaning of lichen and loose rock prior to our ascent in 2007).
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jan 11, 2007

It is possible to access the start of this route (and descend from the base of the route when finished) by using the rock-filled, 4th class gully beneath the route. This is NOT recommended. The descent is particularly treacherous. It is much better to use the first pitch of "Free to Choose" for both the approach and the descent.
By Romain Wacziarg
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'll add that the uppermost of the 80s-style bolts had a rap sling on it; it is probable that those who attempted the line bailed from there. Any traditional protection anywhere on that route would be very sketchy at best.
By Erik Anderson
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 4, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Interesting route! The climbing and position were fun and the route should get better as future ascent parties clean away some of the lichen and loose rock. Recommend a helmet and protected stance for the belayer until things clean up.

I noted evidence of two previous (pre-Permanent Income Hypothesis) ascents/attempts on the arete when my wife and I climbed it today. These included a rusty old bolt and hanger (70s era) that I had mistaken for a piton when I saw it from the ground some years back and a newer bolt (90s? era and chopped) towards the top. Nobodyís ever claimed any credit for these as far as I know?

I have to commend Matthew and Romain for putting a tremendous amount of work into "Permanent Income Hypothesis" and the other projects I noticed going up around the Fortress. Thanks! We had a great day.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 2, 2007

To see a photo of the aging bolt removed from PIH, please click here

What appeared from the surface to be a standard issue 3/8" wedge bolt was actually something very different.
By Kelly Ringwald
Apr 11, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really spectacular exposure on this route and the arete transition near the top is just fantastic. After climbing again I think that the move at the 2nd bolt is perhaps 5.9, but the rest seemed no harder than 5.8.
By Adam D
From: Los Osos, CA
May 10, 2007

Best current route at the Fortress? I think so. Thanks for all the work put into these climbs Matthew and Romain. The upper sections reminded me of some arete climbs in the Gunks. Stuck ropes are a possibility on the first rap into the gully (happened to me) and having some pro to lead back up through the choss is nice.
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
May 25, 2007

Did this route with my girlfriend back in April, and we had a ball. After the initial 5.9 slab move, the rest of the route is surpisingly cruiser and the exposure high on the arete is fantastic. I commend the FA crew for a superb bolting effort. I'll definitely be coming back to this one!
By Diego Hellewell
From: Culver City, CA
Jul 30, 2007

Not every day gives you the opportunity of a 16-bolt 5.9+ on super exposed sandstone, and especially not if you live in SoCal. This climb is worth whatever it takes you to get here!

Be prepared for some sore achilles tendons after the 60 meters of pointwork you'll be putting in here, and do yourself a favor by rappelling off "Free To Choose" when you're done, the descent on foot is kinda hairy.
By Benjiman
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 1, 2007

Nikki and I climbed PIH on 9/30/07. Awesome route, super exposed, super fun climbing. Definitely one of the best 5.9s around (or anywhere). Thanks to Fienamn and Wacziarg for putting up such a superb route.

Some Beta:
1) Helmets are a good idea as there is still a significant amount of lose rock and lichen on the route.
2) I can echo the sentiment about a stuck rope on the first rappel as it almost happened to us as well.
3) I would recommend bringing gear to build a belay at the bottom of the route as a lead fall before the first bolt could result in tragic consequences (I used a #1 MaxCam[~.75"], #10 & #11 Nut).
4) For the conservative, bringing a 2" Cam for the traverse from Free To Choose isn't such a bad idea either.
5) Bring some longer slings for offline bolts (2nd bolt for example) as after 16 bolts the rope drag, although manageable, is quite considerable
By Matt Polk
Dec 11, 2007

Nice to see that there are some permanent routes going up in this area. I did many of these routes either on top rope or on lead with natural gear (not recommended as the rock was pretty loose and pro was sketchy at best) about 10 years ago when we were adding routes to the John P. Wall. I did a line that closely follows PIH with gear and was pretty spooked because I knew my placements were not that great. I was thinking of coming back and bolting the route after we finished Cleaning Lady (The 10c just to the right of Color Blind on the John P Wall) in 99. The flies were so bad and we ended up never coming back to do it. Thanks Matt and Romain for putting it up. I am sure it will be much more fun clipping bolts on it then my last go on it. Also top roped the area around Classically Liberal and Consumption Dysfunction in the late 90ís and thought they would be a lot of fun as bolted lead routes. I knew this area had some good climbs in it and I am glad to see that someone has finally began to put some routes there. During the 90ís some friends and I put up about 10 routes in the area and knew there were many more fine lines to be had.

If you think the Fortress Area is nice, check out the walls a few more miles up the creek. There are a ton of classics waiting to be had there. Did several exploration climbs there as well, and though the approach is not quite as nice, once a decent trail is established the possibilities for really fun first accents will keep you happy for quite a while.

Looking forward to getting back up to the area and checking out the established bolt lines.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 13, 2008

Just did this route as a trio last weekend. With two 60m ropes, it is possible to rappel the entire route in one stretch. Pulling our ropes from the base also seemed to provide a better angle and a cleaner pull (perhaps providing less chance of a stuck rope).
By Stephen Pratt
From: Goleta, CA
Jan 8, 2009

"The permanent income hypothesis (PIH) is a theory of consumption that was developed by the American economist Milton Friedman. In its simplest form, PIH states that the choices made by consumers regarding their consumption patterns are determined not by current income but by their longer-term income expectations."

A free market fan eh?
By Paul F Rose
From: Atascadero
Jan 19, 2009

Great route! Fun, very exposed, one of the few full pitch climbs in the area. Maybe too many bolts. The rock quality keeps you on your toes but it's all there.
By Rob Chaney
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I also did this route as a trio, and raped all the way down and found the rope pull much cleaner. I have had my rope stuck raping of this route before.
By Richard Shore
Aug 17, 2009

Climbed this route on sunday 8/16/09. Fantastic! Very pleasant view from the summit. Must have seen some traffic since previous posts, as it has cleaned up very nicely. Minimal loose rock and lichen on the arete. Some of the holds appear to be fragile, so pull softly. None broke under my 200 lb frame. Coming back to this spot again, one of the best/longest sport climbs in the area! Thanks M+R
By J.J
Aug 28, 2009

I love this route! Gotta watch out for rocks falling when pulling your rope after the first rappel though.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 24, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Length, exposure, and relatively good rock make PIH a standout route at The Fortress. I agree with the poster above that the route would be better with half the number of bolts.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 27, 2009

The poster that you refer to did not say that the route would be better with half the number of bolts ; )
By J.J
Jan 6, 2010

yeah! I like the number of bolts!
By John Knight
Jan 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A really cool, long, well protected route. It's been 4 years since this route went up and it appears to be settling nicely. Certainly the best route we climbed while we were at the Fortress.

I think the grade is a solid 5.9. While the opening move may be the crux (5.9), the upper moves are exposed and really interesting. Note - shorter climbers may want to have someone tall pre-clip the first bolt for them. A fall before the first bolt would result in a tumble down the gully.

I brought a few small cams (just in case) but did not need them. It was nice only having to carry draws and long slings (you really do need 16!). I think the bolting is "Goldilocks". If it had 1/2 the number of bolts this route would be R/X and few would climb it.

Thanks Romain & Matt for a great route.
By Maidy
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Stellar climb! Awesome exposure. Best arete in so Cal IMO. The bolt spacing is fine given the length, grade, and the fact that it is an arete. It's just incredibly long so you can get some rope drag if you clip every single one with a short sport draw. Use long runners or skip a couple bolts on easy parts to minimize drag.

We rapped back to the base of this climb in a single rappel with one 70 meter rope (short easy downclimb to the ledge). You do have to watch the rope pull since there are a number of features that can snag your rope or cause drag.
By miwuksurfer
From: Santa Barbara
Feb 28, 2014

Fun climbing, nice location, but the number of bolts is a bit distracting from the actual climbing.
By Frederick
Nov 18, 2014

Climbed on Saturday and right to the top of my list of fantastic gold medal climbs. My other is Sail Away in Joshua Tree. GO CLIMB IT NOW...but beware of rope snag! Seems it's guaranteed. I pulled my rope, caught in a crack, my buddy pulled his rope, first couldn't pull it, had to hike around to twist chains, then...SNAGGED! Not sure what to do differently.
Climb is fantastic and needs to be ticked!
Met an older climber there with a woman and he took photos of me climbing but with all the rope snag issues we missed him. Would love to have those photos!!