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Perma Draw Removal Alert -WARNING: NSFW
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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Oct 25, 2011
Thumbtastic

I'm trying to make this topic worth reading again. For you, Ryan. Her run on 30 Rock gave me eyeballsfallsoutitis...

The classy shot...
The classy shot...


The lech shot.
The lech shot.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Oct 25, 2011
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Dreamers,,I'm a realist; think I'll stay with my trusty rope partner here.

meditate before the climb
meditate before the climb


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By Eric Krantz
From Black Hills
Oct 25, 2011
smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows

Bud Martin wrote:
Why not?


Holy smokes.

Post the entire sequence, why leave us hanging?


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By Momoface
Oct 25, 2011
So, of course, this is totally me. Naturally.

Killis Howard wrote:
I'm going to point out the obvious: anyone that has to mention how hard they climb, how much they bench, or how big the diamond on their ring finger is, to prove whatever "point" they may or may not have, is:..... A total, spraying, menstrual rah-rah. Some poseur tweets can't handle the idea that the baddy traddies can crush them into leetle beety peeces, even at their own game. NOTE: Tommy Caldwell can climb any fucking thing on the planet, he's paid to do so, and his main focus is....on El Cap. Chris Sharma climbs a whole lot of sport climbs-and cleans his draws after sending, and openly admires Tommy and calls him a better climber than him. Guys like Sonnie Trotter go both ways (ha) but ask any of his bros if he's a sport climber, and you start finding out he's the guy who taught Ethan Pringle to place gear, he's chopped bolts, he's FA'd 12 roof cracks without bolts, etc etc etc. I'm not even gonna bring Dave Macleod into this, he's soloed 13d and put up 14c on gear, Alex Huber has been decrying gay chipping and linkups since forever and he put up a 15a (ask Adam Ondra, he got the 2nd and UPPED the grage from 14d) back in the 90s, way before Sharma had his blue-streak marketing bonanza. Sharma BTW got shredded on a 12d/13a gear route in Utah. For a guy that's warming up on bolted 14b, does that say anything about how unrelated gear and bolted route grades are? So there's the name-dropping thing out of the way, too-go check out my 8a.nu scorecard and see if I climb harder than you and thus am allowed to have an opinion. I'm sorry, just kidding, I have a girlfriend and climb 7 days a week. I have no time to keep a "rad file" on myself, I'm too busy ACTUALLY DOING SOMETHING USEFUL WITH MY LIFE. Other than posting on MP, that is...


You have a very strange fascination with the uterus and its workings.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Oct 25, 2011
Lone goat..

Momoface(whatever that means)is a sweet username!


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Oct 31, 2011
Thumbtastic

Agreed, Momo. However, I'm more suspicious of those who lack the interest. Ah, well. This thing's dead.


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By Michaeld916
From Sacramento, CA
Nov 1, 2011

Troyd wrote:
So I dont have a problem admitting that Im ignorant to some fact. But answering a question with 'quoted for n00bery' is moronic. You dont even come close to providing an answer. Saying well there isnt an access or something would at least give a reason to why you cant rap down, preplace your draws, climb it and have your belayer clean it on the way up. Then place a new anchor on top of another route and do the same thing. Or, just traditionaly lead it, meaning clip your draws. It is sport it takes all of about a five seconds to do so. You can call me a n00b, go for it, but youre just as ignorant.




How the hell do you rap something very overhung with the anchors far from the top of the climb?

Do you know what these sport climbs look like? Have you climbed any sport harder than 5.11a?


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By Johny Q
Nov 1, 2011
My profile

Troyd wrote:
It may take some ingenuity but I always thought that was what climbers were good at. I have ideas on how you could do it, I really dont think it would be hard. And morals evolve simply to suit the needs of those elitist. Not the community as a whole and the preservation of the sport we all love, for whatever reason.



I would love for you to give us some of your well reasoned insight Troyd. What are these ingunius ideas anyway? I really want to know becuase I have been climbing on overhangs for 15+ years and have not come up with an easy way. No matter what it always takes some work. Oftentimes cleaning a severe overhang is harder than the climb itself. Do you really have ideas about this or are you just pontificating on a religion you know nothing about? Please share.

Elitist? The crew who pulled the draws off the 5.12's were being elitist, I will give you that. They pulled the PD's off of the beginners projects so they would be open when they wanted to warm up. They then tricked idiots into believing it was done out of some ethic of environment (so the joke is on you really). Notice that they did not pull their own projects, only the easier climbs. I personally have wanted to remove beginners from my crags so I know the play. Pretend you are pro environment, say that beginners are ruining the landscape, then try to remove the beginners from your environment. Man, I just wish it worked better!

The corporation has spoken???


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By Johny Q
Nov 1, 2011
My profile

Troyd wrote:
I can in the gym... .



I can't resist. I am probably being trolled here, but a gym climber preaching ethics on out door climbing. Seriously? Now that is priceless.

PS.

How does one climb 5.10 and follow 5.12? Now that has me seriously confused.


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By Billcoe
Nov 2, 2011

mattsmith1 wrote:
They weren't stolen. They were stripped, bundled and labeled according to which route they came from and left at the local pizza/climbing hangout to be claimed.


Looks like the locals are having a debate. IMO, it should be done mano e mano and off the internet.

Good on them for doing exactly that. I tend to roll with the leave other peoples stuff alone view, but in this case, it appears to be as much theirs as the next persons and if anyone wants to step up and claim ownership, head to the Pizza place. This conversation should really be for locals to figure out, done face to face/climber to climber, and not by people on the other side of the continent.


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