Mike Anderson wrote:
When they are ready to progress to the next level, what changes about the route? Do they pick a route with the same size holds but 5-10 degrees steeper? If so, they should train with the same holds but more load. In reality, I don't think this option exists for most people. Instead, I would argue that as people progress up to harder routes, they continue to climb at the same crags, so the routes will have similar angles, but the holds will get smaller and further apart (or facing the "wrong" way) and rests may become less frequent. If that is the case, it makes sense to move to smaller and smaller holds for fingerboard training as you improve as a climber.