Perhaps You Should See A Specialist
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Stu Ritchie, pitch 1.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
1. Climb up the left of two right-facing dihedrals up to below the Shark's Head, an obvious right-pointing flake 30 feet up. Layback around this (5.10d) and head up and slightly left then up and slightly right (past a loose block) to gain a small stance on a large dinner plate and under a 3 foot roof.
2. Struggle over the roof (5.10c/d) then continue more easily up through a 5.8 slot. Angle up and slightly left towards the top, over a couple more 5.10a bulges, to gain a ledge under a right-facing 'V' slot in the final rock band. Hand traverse 15 feet right, then squeeze through the Warm Compress (5.9++) to the summit.
NOTE: on FA, pitch 1 was led (and cleaned of much dirt) with a point of clean aid, freed by second.
This tower is the third from the left of the four fins behind the Pixie Stick, immediately west of Captain Bird's Eye.
Perhaps You Should See A Specialist begins on the north face, thirty feet from the west arete, and heads pretty much directly up the obvious weakness.
Descent: A simul-rap with two 60-meter 9mm ropes from the obvious summit saddle, just behind the west arete.
Wires, two or three sets of cams from 1/2 inch to 6 inch. Two 60 meter ropes. No anchors on top. No fixed anchors at all.
Stu Ritchie, starting pitch 1
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