Perhaps You Should See A Specialist
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | FA: Stu Ritchie, Steve Crusher Bartlett, May 2000 |
Page Views: | 923 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Jul 16, 2014 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
1. Climb up the left of two right-facing dihedrals up to below the Shark's Head, an obvious right-pointing flake 30 feet up. Layback around this (5.10d) and head up and slightly left then up and slightly right (past a loose block) to gain a small stance on a large dinner plate and under a 3 foot roof.
2. Struggle over the roof (5.10c/d) then continue more easily up through a 5.8 slot. Angle up and slightly left towards the top, over a couple more 5.10a bulges, to gain a ledge under a right-facing 'V' slot in the final rock band. Hand traverse 15 feet right, then squeeze through the Warm Compress (5.9++) to the summit.
NOTE: on FA, pitch 1 was led (and cleaned of much dirt) with a point of clean aid, freed by second.
2. Struggle over the roof (5.10c/d) then continue more easily up through a 5.8 slot. Angle up and slightly left towards the top, over a couple more 5.10a bulges, to gain a ledge under a right-facing 'V' slot in the final rock band. Hand traverse 15 feet right, then squeeze through the Warm Compress (5.9++) to the summit.
NOTE: on FA, pitch 1 was led (and cleaned of much dirt) with a point of clean aid, freed by second.
Location
This tower is the third from the left of the four fins behind the Pixie Stick, immediately west of Captain Bird's Eye.
Perhaps You Should See A Specialist begins on the north face, thirty feet from the west arete, and heads pretty much directly up the obvious weakness.
Descent: A simul-rap with two 60-meter 9mm ropes from the obvious summit saddle, just behind the west arete.
Perhaps You Should See A Specialist begins on the north face, thirty feet from the west arete, and heads pretty much directly up the obvious weakness.
Descent: A simul-rap with two 60-meter 9mm ropes from the obvious summit saddle, just behind the west arete.
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