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Chris Hassig's Memorial Route S 
Dirty Dozen S 
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Lichen Dike T 
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Sun Bowl S 
Technical Second S 
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Perfectly Blunt 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith 10/95
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: A sunny picture of a wet route in Spring. [[10620...

Description 

This is the climb that sees the least action of all the lines in this section. Perhaps because its the hardest, or because it is tough to size it up or figure a sequence from the ground. Whatever the reason it sees little love I enjoy it and recommend you take a spin on it, it will keep you on your toes in many ways.

There are a few distinct sections of climbing that involve unique moves and or follow different features. Start up under the first bolt and climb through a tricky small roof (knee bar) and then mantle to a good stance. Clip the bolt on the left then move right to climb for a bit on the right arete. Now for the face climbing around the fourth bolt you move out across the face out left and stand delicately on thin edges on a very blunt arete (the route's namesake). Climb thin and technical moves to bolt 5 before moving back to the arete out right. Around the corner there is a good hold that is shared with Rack For Sale (5.7), get it, then head up the arete and clip the anchor on the left.

I think it would be a fun link up to climb this route to bolt 4ish then break left in to Technical Second to the top because I love the finish of that route.


Location 

Just left of the easy to locate Rack For Sale (5.7).


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors.



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By twellman
Jul 19, 2009

Don't make the mistake of trying to go straight to the anchors after the last bolt... the micro-crimps quickly fade into nothing. It is much easier, though not easy, to move right to the arete then head up. The description in the guidebook is perfect... technical and devious!

By steve chardon
Oct 19, 2013

I CLIMBED PB TODAY WITHOUT READING THIS ROUTE DESCRIPTION. GREAT TECHNICAL FACE CLIMB FOR SURE! AFTER CLIPPING THE LAST BOLT I CLIMBED STRAIGHT TO THE CHAINS INSTEAD OF MOVING RIGHT TO THE ARETE. I WOULD GIVE THAT FINAL MOVE A 11B RATING. I'M SURE I'M NOT THE FIRST TO HAVE DONE THAT!

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Oct 22, 2013

YOURE NOT!