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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
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An "Unknown" to White Line Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bonsai T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crazy Woman Driver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Cruise Control T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friday's Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Bansai Here S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude November 1980 |
| Page Views: | 3,418 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | j.yager on Aug 18, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open.
Details
Description
One of the premiere routes on Rainbow. See ROUTE PHOTO posted to either Take a Giant Step or Silver Surfer.
pitch 1: Make your way to the belay ledge w/small birch tree. Bolted belay/rap anchor here, shared with First Wave, Take a Giant Step, Silver Surfer, and Perfect Wave. 5.4, 80ft.
[Note, see photo for the variation "Dike Line" START. Usually, if one takes this start one belays at the base of the corner that is below the dikes.]
pitch 2: Move up and right into a shallow corner (gear possible) then up towards two well placed, but hard to find 3/8" bolts (Originally 1/4" bolts drilled by hand on the lead). [See photo of the two dikes and location of bolts.] Bolts protect the crux, then layback from vertical flakes to fixed slings. 5.7 100+/- ft Most everyone these days runs the next 60-80 ft ( "P3") to the dbl bolt anchor.
pitch 3: Run it out to the dbl bolt anchor, or trees. (Can combine with P2 with a 60M rope, going to the double bolt anchor on Silver Surfer.)
Location
Ford the Swift river and cut into the woods to the Nanamocomuck ski trail. Find a small wooden sign with mileages marked on it. From here, turn north into the woods...[see full description in the "Getting There" section for the main cliff.]
Descent-The route can be rapped with a single rope:3 raps, using a bolted station on "Silver Surfer" and the P1 station on First Wave, Giant Step, Silver Surfer by the small tree.] Double 70m's will get you to the ground, but not double 60's.
Protection
bolts protect face moves on 2nd pitch,
fixed slings, chains at the top
Perfect Wave to Tsunami Ledge
If you have a 70m rope, and are experienced with tension traversing, there is an interesting way to get to the Tsunami ledge for climbs like Tsunami (5.6), Cruise Control (5.7+),Crazy Woman Driver (5.7 - 5.9- R/X), V2 (5.6) and P2 of Super Slab (5.6).
Climb P2 of Perfect Wave (5.7) as described. When you reach the threaded-flake-rap-anchor thread the rap rings and then add your own biner(s) above the rings (so that you lower off on your biner(s), not the rings) and then with a 70m rope, lower off and tension traverse right to the Tsunami ledge. If you are not experienced with tension traverse lowering(s) this is probably not the best place to start.
The second can then climb Perfect Wave and when he/she reaches the flake lower off to the Tsunami ledge. (which is made easier by clipping a sling from harness to the rope going up to the anchor)
You can then TR Tsunami, or pull the rope and lead it.
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