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 ADVANCED
4. The Perfect Wave Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bonsai T 
Crazy Woman Driver T 
Cruise Control T 
First Wave, The T 
Friday's Friend T 
Perfect Wave T 
Petroglyph, The T 
Silver Surfer T 
Super Slab T 
Take A Giant Step T 
Tsunami T 

Perfect Wave 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude November 1980
Page Views: 997
Submitted By: j.yager on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking Up from top of the corner; the bolts are i...

Description 

One of the premiere routes on Rainbow. See ROUTE PHOTO posted to either Take a Giant Step or Silver Surfer.


pitch 1: Make your way to the belay ledge w/small birch tree. 5.4, 80ft. [Note, see photo for the variation "Dike Line" START. Usually, if one takes this start one belays at the base of the corner that is below the dikes.]

pitch 2: Move up and right towards two well placed, but hard to find 3/8" bolts (Originally 1/4" bolts drilled by hand on the lead). [See photo of the two dikes and location of bolts.] Bolts protect the crux, then layback from vertical flakes to fixed slings. 5.7

pitch 3: Run it out to the dbl bolt anchor, or trees. (Can combine with P2 with a 60M rope, going to the double bolt anchor on Silver Surfer.)

Location 

Ford the Swift river and cut into the woods to the Nanamocomuck ski trail. Find a small wooden sign with mileages marked on it. From here, turn north into the woods...[see full description in the "Getting There" section for the main cliff.]

bring two ropes for the descent rappel

Protection 

small to medium gear,
bolts protect face moves on 2nd pitch,
fixed slings, chains at the top


Photos of Perfect Wave Slideshow Add Photo
Charlie Yeager arrives at the slung flake on Perfe...
BETA PHOTO: Charlie Yeager arrives at the slung flake on Perfe...
Perfect Wave (5.7) Looking up from the ground.  Th...
BETA PHOTO: Perfect Wave (5.7) Looking up from the ground. Th...
Another interesting start to Perfect Wave, the &qu...
BETA PHOTO: Another interesting start to Perfect Wave, the &qu...

Comments on Perfect Wave Add Comment
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By Robert Hall
Administrator
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you have a 70m rope, a neat "trick" is to set up the 2nd pitch anchor at the fixed slings as a top rope and then lower down Tsunami all the way to the belay ledge for Tsunami and Cruse Control. The second then follows up Perfect Wave and also lowers down Tsunami. You can then pull the rope to lead, or TR Tsunami.

Like many of the climbs on Rainbow, this would get "4 stars" if it were just a bit longer, or was a bit more interesting after the crux.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As you look up the slab from near the top of the corner on P2 there are two obvious dike lines, the bolts are located in the right-hand dike.
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