Perfect Medium V8
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Moving to the slopey crimp that sets up for the cr...
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Description Start using arete on right and small crimps on left. Make your way to the obvious horizontal break at half-height using razor crimp, sloper, and abysmal feet. Continue from the break up easier moves to the top of the boulder if you are feeling brave or just traverse off left or right to ledges. Large foot hold at bottom might be considered "off" by some...just have fun
Location If you are facing the Venus rising boulder, continue on hiking trail for 50 feet and go right towards the lake past easy problems on the right. Angle around the backside of these boulders you pass and go down the hill hugging the cliff line on your right. You will pass Sex & Chocolate which is a blank arete/face climb/dyno. Perfect Medium is just past this on your right, around a corner.
Protection Landing is very flat although boulders off to the side come in to play on topout
BETA PHOTO: Perfect Medium.
| Perfect Medium
| Sending Perfect Medium.
| Establishing on the sloper and looking for the foo...
| Eyeing up the next hold.
| The stab.
| Nic O. skipping the bad crimp.
| Steve going for a repeat of PM.
| Close-up of the start crimp, for those who use it.
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| Comments on Perfect Medium |
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By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Feb 10, 2007
| First Ascent by Eric Z. I was there when Eric finally fired this thing off. I never did get it. Slightly harder than the Zipper. |
By Brian Runnells Mar 22, 2007
| Must have been cool to see. I knew that Eric had done it but I was waiting until I found out how to spell his name. |
By SteveSchultz Sep 19, 2007
| Very very good problem! That crimp is amazingly sharp though!!! I think this problem may actually be easier for people under 5'8". Getting that high foot was key and i think if i were a couple inches taller it would have been tough to do that. |
By Tony Brengosz Sep 23, 2007
| Did you use that triangle shaped foot up higher, or a really small nubbin slightly lower? |
By SteveSchultz Sep 25, 2007
| we used the triangular foot up high. worked really well for us but i could see it being an issue for someone taller. felt a little more like V8 to me though. |
By Brian Runnells Oct 5, 2007
| Using that high foot would blow out my groin... |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jun 24, 2009 rating: V8
| Steve, you will have to show me your foot beta. RV and I got on it this morning and figuring out the feet was tricky. Super fun problem though, that crimp isn't so bad if you tape up and don't think about it. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jun 28, 2009 rating: V8
| This boulder problem is amazing! I thought it was over today, but PM put up a good fight, next time. |
By SteveSchultz Jun 29, 2009
| Remo! You look so close in the last pic!!! You'll get it soon! Glad the foot beta seems to be working. Looks like you guys had a great crew up there. |
By Paul Jones From: Madison, WI Jul 11, 2009
| A small tree prevented this problem from being done correctly in the beginning. Alas, the tree was removed. The remover of the tree was injured, a few times, for not first offering up kinnikinnic to the Spirits of the Lake and Gitchi Manitou. Always follow local ethics. In this case, local Native American ethics. The same person burned a hive full of bees with gasoline near a boulder problem, and was promptly stung in the center of the forehead, leading to a neanderthal resemblance. I miss those days, and that guy was the greatest climbing sensei I ever met. |
By EB From: Winona Jul 12, 2009
| ...and that dude is coming back this year for the climbers party in october! Should be fun even though he's off the sauce! |
By Terry Kieck Jul 13, 2009
| I remember that day well. I met that "hillbilly" on trail with his gas can and gloves taped to sleeves with duct tape so bees could not get in his shirt. Those were some great times! |
By Paul Campbell From: Sussex, WI Sep 21, 2009
| Anyone know the location / have pics of Manhattan (V1/V2)? Thought it was nearby Perfect Medium... |
By SteveSchultz Sep 21, 2009
| Manhattan is the face directly left of Perfect Medium. If you're looking at PM, turn 90 degrees to your left and that's Manhattan. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Oct 19, 2009 rating: V8
| So Psyched!!! |
By Trad Nanny Oct 19, 2009
| Remo sent finally, after I stopped him from trying every 20 seconds, made him rest, and used the patented "Rhoads Way" for hold scubbin'. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Oct 19, 2009
| That's super news Remo! Well done sir! |
By Langlois From: NYC Oct 19, 2009
| Adam Remus. So hot right now |
By SteveSchultz Oct 26, 2009
| Gabe sent this past Saturday! seems this problem is getting worked this fall!! |
By Dobbe Mar 29, 2010
| Done Dada!!! |
By Langlois From: NYC Mar 29, 2010
| Oh Yeah, sorry I wasnt there to take a sideways vid... |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Mar 29, 2010
| congrats man. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Mar 29, 2010 rating: V8
| Yeah Dobbe! |
By greg bahr Sep 24, 2011 rating: V8
| ill second the fact its a little bit harder if your taller! this thing is sooo good! really enjoyed it! |
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