Perfect Fingers 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Gene West & Walt Shipley, 1989 |
| Season: | sun 3/4 day |
| Submitted By: | tony grice on Dec 7, 2007 |
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Ben on perfect fingers
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Description Thin crack start first 40 ft (thin cams,nuts) opens to perfect fingers then hands in a slot, a few layback moves to the top. Two cruxes, one in the beginning (thin and balancy) another one in the slot/flare near the top.
Location Located on the Lower Walts Rocks. Follow approach as per Walts, but before you climb up to White Rain Area, hike left out of the main approach wash well below Upper Walts. Easy approach from the wash then boulder hop to the base.
Protection Good gear everywhere on this one. Bring the thin gear, lots of finger size up to #1 Camalot. Trad anchor and walk off right through a vegetation choked gully (not bad).
the route
| up close
| "Perfect Fingers". Photo by Blitzo.
| BETA PHOTO: If at Upper Walts, just got to the top and rap the...
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| Comments on Perfect Fingers |
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By RTM Mar 13, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| this route is pretty much responsible for the "discovery" of the Underground, that and my very slow second! |
By Dan G0D5H411 From: Colorado Springs, CO Apr 18, 2011
| For anyone heading out to Lower Walt's, there is an almost brand-new white tri-cam laying in the boulders at the base of this climb. I was surprised by the stoutness of the start of this climb, and in my panic dropped the poor bugger. We couldn't find it afterwards, but maybe you will have better eyes. Free booty! |
By Simon Hatfield From: Los Angeles, CA Mar 30, 2012 rating: 5.10-
| A long, but phenomenal approach to a super beautiful area - doesn't feel like you're in Joshua Tree at all. The route itself is really good, but much more awkward than I was expecting. I couldn't find the above mentioned tricam, but there was a nice purple link cam stuck in the upper crack. I spent about 20 minutes on it before giving up. |
By Richard Shore Apr 5, 2012 rating: 5.10b
| A full set of nuts goes a long way on this route. I placed nearly the entire set. 2 or 3 0.5 camalots are good too. I thought the flare was harder than the thin tips start, but YMMV. Classy splitter. |
By Trad Nanny Feb 3, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| Classic JT crack climbing. Tricky jams in the left facing corner section. |
By Brian Prince From: morro bay, ca Mar 25, 2013
| Such a beautiful line! Flare beta: layback. Way easier than trying to stay inside the thing. It may seem like a terrifying idea on lead but it's really solid and there are good stances every few moves to stand up and reach in to place. |
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