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Peregrine 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 260'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Bill Ravitch, 1980
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008
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  • Description 

    Always free and always fun.

    P1- Climb up grungy face 15 feet right of Hawk or (nicer) climb Hawk to the communal belay. Note - this area was massively affected by rockfall in 2008.

    P2- Climb short overhang to face in between the two obvious corners. Climb face and right-hand corner to larger overhang. Go right, around corner and up to next overhang. Make funky and fun moves left around the overhang and continue straight up.

    P3- Climb easy crack and face ~20 left of Hawk's large corner. Clean and nice pitch.


    Location 

    At or 15 feet right of Hawk's P1 crack.

    Walk 100 feet right to descend the bolted rap line right of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst.


    Protection 

    Standard rack up to 2".



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    By losbill
    Jun 29, 2010

    Backed off at overhang coming out of P1 belay. Tried the hang in several spots. No obvious gear above hang and no clear finishing jugs. A lot of lichen over the overhang. The only chalk was far right in the corner. Still no gear above and a dicey move or two to the left to clear overhanging corner as you pull the overhang. With a ledge 10 feet beneath me, I decided that my ankles were worth more than finishing the route. Vectored over and did P2 of Columbia. For those who have climbed Peregrine, am I missing something?

    By Franz Buzawa
    Oct 16, 2010

    Excellent climb--well worth it. I just checked the old Swain and Williams guides and they both rate it 5.8 PG. No question, 5.8 or perhaps even 5.8+ climbing given the length of the crux and the pucker factor due to the exposure. No way this is 5.7.

    The old Williams guide gives the best description, but I would avoid the book first pitch which has thin to no protection at all and climb the 1st pitch of Hawk to the ledge and move right to set up a belay at a tree just below the right most (and deepest) of the 2 corner left-facing corner systems above. It's also possible to set up a belay at the ledge above P1 of Hawk then angle right into the corner system to start P2 (this is what I did).

    The meat of the climb is P2. As described in the Williams book start to move through and around the corner just above where you would for Hawk. There's good pro in the corner before you make the move, then a small cam placement after you finish, but the crux isn't over yet-exciting and super exposed; this is Gunks 5.8 climbing at it's best. With good rope management you can combine P2 & 3. P3 goes through some very scary looking loose blocks stacked on the GT ledge (perhaps a result of the `08 rock fall?). I suppose you could move further right and rejoin Hawk to avoid them. That might make for a more satisfying climb, albeit a bit contrived.

    By Kurtz
    May 20, 2013

    I liked the P1 start. It's clean but not well-protected. I think we got in a total of 3 pieces.

    P2 was a bit dirty and wet (despite no recent rain). The first overhang was pumpy and I chickened out on the second because of scanty pro and no obvious chalk or holds. Went right to Hawk.

    We traversed right on a ledge from Hawk's P2 belay and rejoined Peregrine for P3. A bit dirty but no surprises.