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Percha Creek, Hillsboro

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barber Shop Cafe T 
Bridge Troll, The S 
Burning the Candle at Both Ends T 
Da Boyz are Back in Town T 
Dihedral T 
Duck Soup S 
Edmund's crack T,TR 
Grady's Route T 
Hillsboro Hooker S 
Just your style T 
Meanderneath You S 
New Kids on the Block S 
Nipple, The S 
Nutcracker T 
Patience T 
Pepe's school of beauty S 
Rolling Stones Gather no Mas T,S 
Shave and a Cut T 
Three Billy Goats Gruff S 
Wade For Me S 
Worried Dog Blues S 
Worth the Wade T 

Percha Creek, Hillsboro 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 32.92, -107.572 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,091
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 24, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Mini-guide for Percha Creek.

Description 

A fun crag tucked underneath NM Highway 152. Climbed since the 1980's a handful of bolted and trad routes can be found here and there exists potential for more route development. Most of the cliff receives direct sun but there are numerous willows to provide shade in the canyon. The willows have choked up the canyon directly below some routes, and some bushwhacking is needed to get to the base of the climb and even to reach the first or second bolt. If water is present, it can be difficult to get to the base of some climbs, as there will be pools directly under portions of the cliff. [edited by Aaron Hobson]


Getting There 

From I-25, take Hillsboro exit going west. Go (slowly) through the town of Hillsboro. A few minutes past the town, the road goes uphill and makes a sharp turn right. Park at the pullout on the left just before the bridge. There is a sign for the old Percha Creek bridge. Hop over rock wall, go down to the creek, and walk to the right a few hundred feet. Climbs are on your right side on the east side of the creek.(Taken directly from miniguide topo, author: Kelly and Susan Elverum).

Note: The GPS Coordinates above are to the town of Hillsboro. I do not have the coordinates to the location of the crag. Will post when I do.


Resources 

www.nmsu.edu/~geology/amato/hillsboro.jpg

(This same guide is posted as a picture to the right or below.)

Dennis Jackson's guide book, Rock Climbing New Mexico (2006) has a section on Percha Creek which covers all of the routes in the Elverum topo, as well as a few more.


Climbing Season


22 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',12],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Percha Creek, Hillsboro:
Barber Shop Cafe   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 90'   
The Nipple   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Percha Creek, Hillsboro

Featured Route For Percha Creek, Hillsboro
Jim working on Rolling Stones

Rolling Stones Gather no Mas 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Percha Creek, Hillsboro
Start on four bolts on a nice face and arete to a pocketed faces that is protectable with cams. If protection seems dubious you can escape to the crack of Just Your Style....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Percha Creek, Hillsboro Slideshow Add Photo
Overview Pic of Percha Creek with a few new bolted climbs
BETA PHOTO: Overview Pic of Percha Creek with a few new bolted...
12 Three Billy Goats Gruff 10+ <br />13 Weekend Worrier NR <br />14 Meanderneath You 11 <br />15 The Nipple 10 <br />16 Burning the Candle at Both Ends 8r/x <br />17 Patience 9 <br />18 Grady's Route <br />19 El Loco Solo 8X
BETA PHOTO: 12 Three Billy Goats Gruff 10+
13 Weekend Worrier ...
Dan
Dan
1 Barber Shop 8 <br />2 Shave and a Cut 9 <br />3 Pepe's School of Beauty 10 <br />4 Lucas Project <br />5 Rolling Stones Gather no Mas 10+ <br />6 Just Your Style 10 <br />7 Lucas Project <br />8 Nut Cracker 10 <br />9 Dihedral 8/9 <br />10 Wade For me 8 <br />11 Worth the Wade 7
BETA PHOTO: 1 Barber Shop 8
2 Shave and a Cut 9
3 Pepe's Schoo...
I thought I heard someone talking about "red on yellow kill a fellow, red on black venom lack" while I was climbing.  When I got home, I found this (and a few others) on my camera.  Seen below the un-named 5.8 on the far left.
I thought I heard someone talking about "red on ye...
20 Bridge Troll 9-  <br />21 Worried Dog Blues 11+ <br />22 Edmund's Crack 11 <br />23 Sticker Shock 10 <br />24 Hillsboro Hooker 10
20 Bridge Troll 9-
21 Worried Dog Blues 11+
22 Ed...
Comments on Percha Creek, Hillsboro Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Mooney
Mar 3, 2006

The unnamed 5.8 at the far left is a very nice route.
Some little bitty stoppers will sorta protect the start.

Bring a 60 meter rope.

By Karl Kiser
Apr 25, 2006

Dennis Jackson's new book "Climb New Mexico" (2006) has this crag pp. 381-85. Both the topo and Jackson's book need updating. I made notes after climbing here Nov. 2004. First, we started climbing here in the mid 1980s (not 1990s). Routes tended to be trad and TR. The bolted lines came later.

Key--DJ (Dennis Jackson's book); T (revised topo (Kelly Elverum) posted by Jeff Amato)

DJ#3 "Duck Soup"--bolted line
just left Edmund' crack 5.10/5.10+ walk off right
just left a bolted line with anchor
the creek is under these climbs unless climbers have added rocks

DJ#4 (T-1) "El Solo Loco" needs bolts and anchor, currently a free solo
DJ#5 (T-2) "Grady's Route" there once was a Lost Arrow down low
DJ#6 (T-3) I did the FA with Cindy Weaver, it is called "Patience"
DJ#7 (T-4) "Burning the Candle at Both Ends"
just left, a bolted arete
the creek is pooled under these climbs as well

DJ#8 (T-5) "Meanderneath You
DJ#9 (T-6) "Project"
just left a bolted route with anchors, some type of 5.10

DJ#10 (T-7) "Worth the Wade"
DJ#11 (T-8) "Wade for Me
DJ#12 (T-9) Dihedral 2
DJ#13 (T-10) "Nutcracker"
DJ#14 unknown

DJ#15 (T-11) "Just Your Style"
DJ#16 (T-12) "Rolling Stones Gather No Mas"
just left bolted route with anchors

DJ#17 (T-13) Unnamed trad to anchor

Hopefully this post will generate some additional comments.

By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Apr 24, 2007

This area has seen some serious terraforming since last year. All the trees below Duck Soup area are gone, and the ground has eroded out a few feet, making the initial moves tricker. Most of the trees that interefered with Meanderneath You are also gone. In fact the only tree that remains at the base of the crag is the tall cottonwood in front of Nutcracker, and much of its root-base is showing.

By James Stockton
From: Las Cruces, NM
Dec 6, 2007

Grady's route, 10b(?) just to the right of Patience, recently got two shiny new bolts down low courtesy of Grady Viramontes. It's trad the rest of way up, but protectable. Cool climb!!

By climber pat
From: Las Cruces, NM
Nov 15, 2008

Here is a little history of this area.

Tony Grenko and I started the development of this area in the very late 1970s and early 1980s. During this time we were climbing in tennis and hiking shoes and using hexes and nuts for protection. We learned to climb by reading books (Rock Climbing by Peter Livesey, Ropes Knots and Slings for Climbers by Walt Wedlock, Basic Rockcraft and Advanced Rockcraft by Royal Robins) We did not have a bolt kit, or even know about bolts.

In particular we climbed most of the easier routes on the left side of the cliff (Unknown #13 and the cracks around it). All routes we put up were done traditional (it was the 70s-80s after all) style as we did not know any better at the time. To us climbing was walking up to a cliff and climbing it.

Eventually, we started climbing with the Southwest Mountaineers who educated us on the finer points of climbing, for example route names and topos. Sometime around 1983-84 we brought a group of Southwest Mountaineers to the cliff. I remember this vividly as I was nervous that the area would not prove worthy compared to the various walls in the Organ Mountains the SW Mountaineer had showed us. But is was hot and and this location is higher and cooler than the desert around Las Cruces.

Potentially of interest to some is that Tony and I actually tried to ice-climb the cliff south of the road one winter after a storm. We got about 30 ft up before running away. We also climbed the cliff a mile or so up Railroad canyon and the cliff opposite Jordan Hot Spring on the Mid-fork of the Gila river, probably the loosest most dangerous climb of my career.

By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 3, 2009

02/03/2009 - There is a nice bolted route (10d?) with a couple of roofs 10 feet left of The Nipple.

There are two bolted routes with shared anchors 10 and 14 feet left of Duck Soup. The first route is a challanging face climb, the second is a nice climb on the arete.

Note the picture taken on this page with a few black lines to show the routes.

By Tony Grenko
From: Las Cruces, NM
Oct 17, 2013

One more note....

The big broken wall on the otherside of the bridge in percha creek is very climbable. It is actually a nicer climb than you might think on first inspection and not as loose as it looks. The shallow grooves up the very center of the wall go at 5.6 or so. Its about 2 and a half pitches. My first wife (Sue Miale) and I climbed it buck naked in the summer of 1979. Also, there is fantastic bouldering along the creek bottom at the base of that wall - with sandy landings.

enjoy

By Tony Grenko
From: Las Cruces, NM
Oct 17, 2013

Oops. I posted on a photo rather than the blog. As Pat Gio mentioned, he and I started the climbing in this area back in the late 70s. I led the unnamed route 13 first with Pat. We named it "roof Route". In the 90s someone bolted is 6 inches from a perfect crack.

Paul Siebert led nut cracker frist in 1991. As Karl mentioned many of the first assent credits are inaccurate as almost all of the obvious lines were first led in 1980-81 by people then climbing in the las cruces area.

I know of several routes under the bridge and south of the bridge as well. I will so out this fall and take some pictures and post to expand information for those interested in this area.

Enjoy!