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4. Moby Grape Area
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White Iceberg, The 

Peppy's Face 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Coe, Paul Horak, Rusty Reno (July 1989)
Page Views: 3,039
Submitted By: Rusty Reno on Feb 10, 2007
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Rusty Reno on the first crux during the first asce...

Description 

This route has three distinct cruxes. The first twenty feet involve sustained 5.11 micro-edging (see picture) with good protection. After moving left to the third bolt, the route goes up a shallow groove with a difficult mantle to clip the next bolt. (I took a 40 foot fall on this move on the first ascent!) A short traverse right brings the leader to the crux -- a sequence of pure friction moves that seem impossible. (Full disclosure: Paul, Tom, and I gave the crux about 100 tries before Tom finally succeeded.)

This is a genuine test piece -- old school 5.12 thin face with bolts put in on the lead. My old buddies in North Conway have told me that the young Turks who are tearing up the 5.14 sport routes think it is impossible, and they don't believe that this route was ever led. Rest assured gym rats, it was.


Location 

The route climbs past a series of bolts just left of Reppy's Crack


Protection 

Bolts. Bring some pro for the easy final section. Shares a rap anchor with Reppy's Crack.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 11, 2007

This must be the definition of insecure slab climbing.

Are the bolts still in good shape?

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 3, 2008

what gives it the R rating?... just scarcity of bolts?

By Rusty Reno
Mar 31, 2008

Just a longish run-out -- really only at one spot going up to the mantle described above. There is no danger of ground fall on this route.

By Michael G
Aug 14, 2009

Since you put up the FA, and were ok with using bolts, why not just drill another during the R climbing to make it safer?

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 29, 2009

Michael, the bolts were put in on lead, which means that putting them in at the harder parts is...well, hard.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 8, 2010

Michael G- ya just don't get it do you ? I don't know about an R for this , maybe an r instead. Nice NH 11++

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 16, 2010

Well done! I felt like Jesus must have felt when he walked on water!
It must be the Turquoise pantaloons.

By Rusty Reno
Sep 1, 2010

Hey Mike, did you do the lead? To be honest, I've never met anyone who has led this route! The crux is, well, cruxy. I'll admit that on the first ascent it took something like 50 tries. The rope doesn't help.
As I recall, some of the North Conway guys at the time declared the route impossible. They obviously didn't know Paul Horak, one of the greatest face climbers of his generation, or Tom Coe, and equally remarkable climber. As I look back, Peppy's Face was extreme for its day. I fell one time climbing up to a high point, and to be perfectly honest, I hadn't fallen on 5.11 face for years up until that point.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 6, 2011

I did not lead the route, attempted on top rope but never reached the top.
With some work I am sure it will go.
Just sent Condiscender and this one is on my list, I will definitely be bragging when I lead it

By paulmadry
Jul 21, 2013

Can you tell me if I was off/on route?
I went straight up to 1st bolt, over it just to the right , moved to second bolt and then diagonaled up left and then straight up getting to 3rd rusty bolt (why, all other are shiny), and then moved up and slightly left with laybacking some rotten crack to mantle where 4th bolt is and then traversed right to 5th bolt and up in crack.
Or it goes up and right after 3rd bolt , yikes???