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 ADVANCED
Echo Cove - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) 
Chute Up 
Echo Buttress 
Fun Stuff 
Fun with a Gun 
Hang Ten 
Helix 
Hot Knife 
Palm-U-Granite 
Pepasan 
Pigs on the Wing 
Pinky Lee 
Porky Pig 
R. A. F. 
Raging Intensity 
Santa's Little Helpers 
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The 
Swing Low 
Tofu the Dwarf 
W. A. C. 

Pepasan 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon and Radim Bedin, May 1991
Page Views: 437
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 8, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Fun Stuff (left) to Pepason (right). Copyright 200...

Description 

Locate the tall face where The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C. converge; this route is on the next rock to the right.

Pepasan starts (and stays) left of the short crack towards the bottom of the rock. Gain the horizontal (easy climbing), then make a scary, committing, wide step onto a small ledge on the bottom of the face. Up past three bolts; somewhat runout between second and third.


Protection 

3 bolts. Committing, dangerous move to get onto face proper below first bolt without a cam.



Photos of Pepasan Slideshow Add Photo
"Pepasan". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Pepasan".
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on Pepasan Add Comment
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By Richard Miles
Apr 27, 2003

The protection on Pepason is very good if a cam is placed in the horizontal just below the committing step to the start of the face. Above, the bolts are excellent, providing great protection for the thinner moves. This is a fun short face climb.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jan 18, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

You can stick a cam in before pulling the moves to the first bolt. Not an 'R' route.

By haishan
Dec 2, 2013

No bolts on top, good cracks take #1-#2 and #4 cams for an anchor. You can downclimb the 5.2 chute to the left or walk over to the W.A.C. anchors to rap down.