Climbing in the high alpine at the Penthouse. Bolt...
This is a sweet little sport/mixed crag that is great for a quick pump or after work burn. It is a fairly short wall, but the rock quality is impeccable. It has a cool view, and nobody here makes this a desirable destination. This was the first crag developed at Middle Mountain.
Hike down ridgeline from car to uppermost cliff - 50' tall with obvious bolted routes and anchors. All anchors easily reached from top of cliff.
Climbing Season For the Durango area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Penthouse
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Penthouse
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Penthouse:
Shallow Hal 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Centerfold 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Penthouse
Local Information for Penthouse
Latest Regional Forum Messages
The superb stone of the Penthouse.
From: CO / NM
May 13, 2012
There is one more route between Stabbing the Cat and Shallow Hal. Four bolts. 5.9. This is another fun one. Really fun wall with excellent rock, belay stances and scenery.
By Mike Sullivan
From: Durango, CO
Jun 4, 2015
Note that the anchors for each of these climbs consist of a pair of bolt hangers, most of which are located quite a ways back from the top of the route. To descend, you either have to top out and walk off (easy 2-minute scramble back to the base), or hang a cordelette or a few slings from the bolts and grab your anchor gear later. This crag would be a lot more user friendly if it was equipped with proper sport anchors, but it does offer a handful of fun moderate sport climbs in a beautiful setting. The trad routes are short and pretty lame. Beware of loose rock on a few of the routes, including Stabbing... and Dude....
BTW, I think the previous comment is mistaken about the new 5.9. There's no other route in between Hal and Stabbing the Cat.