Penthouse Cracks 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 18 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Will S on May 8, 2007 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description These four short cracks on the far left end of Swan Slab make ok solos/highballs or TRs in a variety of styles. You can toprope them all from a single anchor by scrambling up from the left. The cracks are rated (from L to R), 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.8. Crux on the .11a is a bouldery move right off the deck to gain an easier crack, easier for tall people.
Location On the far left end of Swan Slab, starting off a large flat ledge about 15' off the ground. You can walk up to the ledge from the left. If soloing, when the cracks end traverse the horizontal break to the right past the 5.8 flake to gain a 5.5 face downclimb.
Protection TR or Solo.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the cracks from the left end of Swan...
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BETA PHOTO: The 5.8 Flake on the right side of the Penthouse c...
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BETA PHOTO: The 5.10 a fingers and hands crack left-middle on ...
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BETA PHOTO: This is what the top of the Penthouse Cracks looks...
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| Comments on Penthouse Cracks |
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By -Ty-
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 1, 2007
| Watch out for bears. No kidding. We had one steal our food while we were no more than 15 feet away from our packs.
The walk-off/top-rope approach is decently gnarly. I would avoid it. |
By Eve8008
From: Santa Cruz, California
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.10
| For beginner climbers, setting up top rope for the first time was kind of scary. You climb around the rock to the left, maybe 5.1, you could go up with no protection if you feel secure enough. Once up there, we tied ourselves around a tree and then set up the tope rope. There are two rings so you can just slide your rope through them, and then when you are finished, you can rappell down and don't have to climb up again.
The 5.8 route was a lot of fun for practicing jamming and using fists. It's short, but fun. Very nice spot. |
By Kyle Napierkowski
Apr 26, 2013
| Cool little ledge to chill and toprope on a sunny early season day. Each of the cracks requires slightly different technique. Should be easy enough for new climbers to have a good time.
Echoing above comment that the approach required some 5th class moves. Definitely be ready to rap after setting an anchor, downclimbing the approach would be tricky |
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