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Swan Slab
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Aid Route 
Bay Tree Crack 
Bobcat Crack 
Claude's Delight 
Grant's Crack 
Hanging Flake 
Lena's Lieback 
Oak Tree Crack 
Oak Tree Flake 
Penelope's Problem 
Penthouse Cracks 
Pin Scar Seams 
Swan Slab Chimney 
Swan Slab Gully 
Swan Slab Squeeze 
Ugly Duckling 
Unknown Arete 
Unnamed Crack 
Unnamed Crack (the other one) 
Unnamed Face Route 
Unnamed Seam 
Unnamed Thin Crack 
V-Crack 
West Slabs 

Penthouse Cracks 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 18'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,653
Submitted By: Will S on May 8, 2007
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Description 

These four short cracks on the far left end of Swan Slab make ok solos/highballs or TRs in a variety of styles. You can toprope them all from a single anchor by scrambling up from the left. The cracks are rated (from L to R), 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.8. Crux on the .11a is a bouldery move right off the deck to gain an easier crack, easier for tall people.


Location 

On the far left end of Swan Slab, starting off a large flat ledge about 15' off the ground. You can walk up to the ledge from the left. If soloing, when the cracks end traverse the horizontal break to the right past the 5.8 flake to gain a 5.5 face downclimb.


Protection 

TR or Solo.



Photos of Penthouse Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
The 5.10 a fingers and hands crack left-middle on Penthouse.
BETA PHOTO: The 5.10 a fingers and hands crack left-middle on ...
Looking up at the cracks from the left end of Swan Slab.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the cracks from the left end of Swan...
The 5.8 Flake on the right side of the Penthouse cracks.  Very fun.
BETA PHOTO: The 5.8 Flake on the right side of the Penthouse c...
This is what the top of the Penthouse Cracks looks like.  The toprope and rappel rings on the right tend to get chopped from time to time.  If they are not there, you can use the 10+ year old 4"x4" that is secured into the crack on the left, or large cams.
BETA PHOTO: This is what the top of the Penthouse Cracks looks...
Comments on Penthouse Cracks Add Comment
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By -Ty-
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 1, 2007

Watch out for bears. No kidding. We had one steal our food while we were no more than 15 feet away from our packs.

The walk-off/top-rope approach is decently gnarly. I would avoid it.

By Eve8008
From: Santa Cruz, California
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

For beginner climbers, setting up top rope for the first time was kind of scary. You climb around the rock to the left, maybe 5.1, you could go up with no protection if you feel secure enough. Once up there, we tied ourselves around a tree and then set up the tope rope. There are two rings so you can just slide your rope through them, and then when you are finished, you can rappell down and don't have to climb up again.

The 5.8 route was a lot of fun for practicing jamming and using fists. It's short, but fun. Very nice spot.

By Kyle Napierkowski
Apr 26, 2013

Cool little ledge to chill and toprope on a sunny early season day. Each of the cracks requires slightly different technique. Should be easy enough for new climbers to have a good time.

Echoing above comment that the approach required some 5th class moves. Definitely be ready to rap after setting an anchor, downclimbing the approach would be tricky

By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Don't use the rap rings to TR, as Eve suggests...on any climb, for that matter.