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Reservoir Wall
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Pente 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 14,233
Submitted By: Ben F on May 13, 2001
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Tony stretching towards the thin hands start to Pe...
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with a few slightly larger pods in it. This leads to another small ledge. Above the ledge, the crack turns to a thinning left facing dihedral (mostly .75 Camalot). Catch your breath at the ledge and motor for the anchors. This climb is freaking awesome - varied and challenging.


Protection 

Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots. Some 2 and 2.5 Friends would also work. Also bring 2 or 3 #2 Camalots/3 Friends and the same goes for .75 Camalots/1.75 Friends. For the very top, you can place a couple pieces in the .5 Camalot range. You will need 2 ropes to rappel as this pitch is somewhere around 125 ft.



Photos of Pente Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Hansen gives Pente a go on his second day climbing in the Creek. Sept 2011. <a href='http://www.mattkuehlphoto.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.mattkuehlphoto.com</a>
Andy Hansen gives Pente a go on his second day cli...
The awesome thin hands splitter of Pente. <br /> <br />Photo by Alex Cooper
The awesome thin hands splitter of Pente.

Photo b...
Smack in the middle of the hands splitter on Pente. September 2011.
Smack in the middle of the hands splitter on Pente...
Andy Hansen places a #2 in the thin hands start to Pente. Sept 2011 <a href='http://www.mattkuehlphoto.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.mattkuehlphoto.com</a>
Andy Hansen places a #2 in the thin hands st...
Pente (5.11), a grand perspective. <br />Terry climbing. <br />
BETA PHOTO: Pente (5.11), a grand perspective.
Terry climbing....
A slightly different angle. Joseffa Meir leads 'Pente (5.11-)' at Resevoir Wall. The wide corner in the background is unknown to me. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2002.
A slightly different angle. Joseffa Meir leads 'Pe...
Pente with a view
BETA PHOTO: Pente with a view
Start of the slabby left-facing corner.
Start of the slabby left-facing corner.
Tony jammin on the beautiful Pente splitter
Tony jammin on the beautiful Pente splitter
The classic thin hands - hands splitter. Fingers for the corner above.
The classic thin hands - hands splitter. Fingers f...
Thin hands splitter - so good
Thin hands splitter - so good
Jon Tashkin beginning the journey.
Jon Tashkin beginning the journey.
The towering Pente.  Mamacita!
BETA PHOTO: The towering Pente. Mamacita!
Geared-up for the long haul (thin hands start).
Geared-up for the long haul (thin hands start).
Fun start.
Fun start.
The totally bitchin thin hands start to the totally bitchin Pente
The totally bitchin thin hands start to the totall...
Tony Bubb gets a no-hands rest with the leg stuffed into the flake before the thin-hands corner on 'Pente (5.11-)'. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2002
Tony Bubb gets a no-hands rest with the leg stuffe...
Tony Bubb on the final moves of 'Pente (5.11-)'. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2002.
Tony Bubb on the final moves of 'Pente (5.11-)'. P...
Pete about to re-enter red Camalot country.  <br /> <br />Interesting "block" physics on this one... <br /> <br />March 2013
Pete about to re-enter red Camalot country.

Inte...
Comments on Pente Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 24, 2014
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2002
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Me and My 70 M rope say that this pitch is closer to 155' long. You'd need a 100M of cord to get off of it!

The thin section up top is not hard, but you are soooo pumped, so lay-backing is difficult.

By Josh Beck
May 1, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Probably 160-165', a 70 would miss by a mile, bring 2 ropes. Excellent to the first ledge, a bit tedious and a bit of rope drag above. As others said, good to have a couple .5-.75 (Camalot) size pieces for the top.

By Rob Dillon
Apr 13, 2006

Does anyone know exactly when the block at the base collapsed? Yikes.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Oct 15, 2006
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

What a stunning line. If you like #1 Camalot size cracks, then jump on this one. It just keeps on going...

By SirVato
From: Boulder
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

This Route Is sweeet!! #1s are usually pretty tough for me. I found that I just push through the thin stuff and every ten feet or so there seemed to be a GOOD hand jam.
For me the start was kind of awkward and, also when the steepness eases off and the crack thins for the final stratch to the anchors.
Not hard but your pumped and it seems your feet mey slip on the sandy-ish rock.

By reddirt
Sep 27, 2007

Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots

Indian Creek virgin on the east coast here... what constitutes a "heaping helping"?

By DaveB
Oct 19, 2007

Pente is one of the finest crack routes I've climbed. Of course, the splitter is classic, but the left-facing corner above really gives the route its full value!

Take advantage of any rests you may find.

The gear recommendation in the new Bloom book is good. However, for peace-of-mind, one might consider taking an additional #2, #2.5, and/or #3.5 Friend(s).

By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007

The route is loooong. My hands are average sized (not small) and this route is perfect hands for peeps with small hands. Nonetheless it was quite enjoyable and sustained for the long face splitter. Some rests here and there to help. Then the 2nd half is the layback (for me). Good rests is the 2nd half. TR'ed this and its my fav 5.11 at the creek.

By Clay Rardon
From: Morgantown, WV
Feb 17, 2008

This has to be my favorite pitch of crack anywhere. End of story.

(Bring two ropes, a 70m doesn't cut it)

By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2008

This is hands down one of the best routes at the creek, especially in the 5.11 grade. Pretty much a hike if you know how to hand jam, the top part of the route is a bit of a sting in the tail though ... Don't make the mistake of taping for this route if you have bigger hands!

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008

70 won't come close to cutting it on this 160' route. Seriously this could be the best crack climb ever. As many stars as possible. It would have been wortj driving out to the creek just for this route.
6 yellow, 7 red, 3 green and 2 purple camalot shoud work (plus one draw & 1 shoulder sling).

CL

By christopher adams
Jul 14, 2009

How hard is the direct start to the upper crack?

By Courtney Pace
Mar 18, 2010

Don't forget the .75's. At least 3 or 4. Save some juice for the end, it gets pretty spicy!

By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 27, 2012

Climbed this a few days ago and sand started flowing down the crack from the top of the first big ledge and coming out at the bottom. The sand was essentially flowing out of the crack for 2 minutes non-stop. Has this ever happened to anyone before? Definitely freaked me out a bit...

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I took 5 0.75 (green c4) cams and used all of them. You burn one right off the bat on the section before the roof. The upper section takes them well. I also took 9 #1 (red C4) and placed all of them. Such a good line! I didn't place any finger sized pieces. I did place one #3 c4 at the pod at the base of the main crack (just above the roof). I placed a couple #2 (yellow c4) cams as well at the roof.

By doligo
Mar 24, 2014

The chockstones just to the right of the climber in this picture: www.mountainproject.com/v/106046516 are VERY LOOSE! Don't belay from the cave, but rather from the left side of the boulder at the base. It would be nice if someone can trundle the blocks on rappel (we didn't have a second rope, so had to be lowered with some shenanigans with an 80). Oh and btw, 80M doesn't make it - the climb must be close to 160, rather than 150.