| Pentapitch Area |
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| | Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
Little Cottonwood Access Update
Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner.
The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek.
Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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BETA PHOTO: Centered in this photo, the two levels of blank ro...
Description Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!
Getting There The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon.
After passing the pumphouse watch for the gated road on the right (here).
Park at the pullout and walk down the road or through the woods to cross the stream at a bridge. Walk down canyon until you see a trail branching off on your left just before you reach two large pine trees on the right side of the main trail.
Hike up the trail. At the bottom of the talus stick more-or-less to the right side and you will be deposited at the base of Pentapitch.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pentapitch Area:
Featured Route For Pentapitch Area
BETA PHOTO: The Pentapitch area!
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| Comments on Pentapitch Area |
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By Mike the Trad Guy
Mar 12, 2002
| pentapitch is a LCC classic. Don't skip the last pitch, it is a great pitch when run together as a long single pitch, and has great exposure while padding over to the tree that is no longer there! BONUS!! Also, if you have done "sasquatch" a million times, try "Ginseng", a nice alternate route to the right of sasquatch, it has a reachy 10a crux, but is very rewarding moves. |
By Jared Brown
Jun 24, 2002
| The description how to get to this rock is confusing if you've never been there before. The two large pine trees are bigger than the other large pine trees in the area and are a few feet off the road to the left, at the third trail that branches off the road. Stay along the right edge of the boulder field and go to the top right corner of it, where a short trail will lead you to the base of pentapitch. Sasquatch is to the right, and begins on a low angle slab below an overhang. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 21, 2004
Gear Alert
| There is now a piton where the tree used to be. Too bad, because you could get a small stopper and a small cam as pro. |
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
May 18, 2004
| No pitons on Pentapitch currently in May 2004. |
By Tico
May 25, 2007
| My current favorite link-up is Neuromancer -> Sasquatch -> Pentapitch.
Nice and varied climbing, and it gets easier the higher you go. Also a nice way to skip the crowds on Pentapitch proper. |
By lauren wildflower
Aug 31, 2009
| two important tips that would've helped us first-timers to the area:
1) to get to pentapitch, DON'T turn at the pipe! this gets you waist-deep in weeds. instead, keep walking past the pipe until you see two massive pine trees on the left and large stone steps leading to the right across a muddy area. after only about a minute you'll walk into a large talus field. follow the right edge of this to the base of pentapitch area.
2) the pitch following sasquatch feels much more difficult than 5.8 and involves more slab climbing than we trad climbers were prepared for. we had a doubled/tripled rack and still ran out of little pro to .75 because the tiny finger-tip crack was all there was. great climb, but be prepared! |
By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 31, 2009
| i had the pleasure of witnessing the latter half of that shit show, i couldn't figure out how you guys ran out of gear 15 feet above the anchor on a pitch requiring roughly four pieces?
glad you survived. |
By rth
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 8, 2011
| requested update on the pump house bridge to get to the pentapitch area. Is there a replacement in place or in the works? |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 12, 2011
| no bridge as of 6/12/11, and probably won't be for at least a few months. |
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