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Pent Up 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jason Nelson, Jack Jefferies, Cody Sims
New Route: Yes
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 792
Submitted By: Jason Nelson on Aug 28, 2012

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Cody Sims on pitch 7 of Pent Up, the Black Canyon.

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Description 

Pent Up is a nice, shorter outing up a prominent buttress. The route features excellent belay ledges and good climbing in a nice position. The first few pitches get you warmed up for the crux which climbs through some of the best pegmatite in the canyon.

The story behind the route...the magazines probably did a better job of describing the ascent then I could, so see the links below.

All of the pitches are about 100 feet in length.

Pitch 1 (5.6) - Climb blocks and bushes to big ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.9) - Climb painted double cracks in corner to big ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.10) - Mr. Crumblies. Climb steep hands and wider on the right side of the buttress. Don't go up the prominent corner to the right. At the top of the crack, a ramp leads you back to the center of the buttress.

Pitch 4 (5.10) - A tricky move up a ramp to the left leads to a right facing corner, then continue to a steep hand crack which turns to a chimney and ends on a big ledge.

Pitch 5 (5.12c) - The Mexican Standoff. Begin on the thin cracks on the left side of the buttress. Follow this to a roof with a bolt which is the crux. Continue up on sustained climbing passing another bolt. Once above the pegmatite band, traverse left toward the arete to a small ledge/stance with a bolt. The bolt is for the belay and can be backed up with small cams. Gear: lots of small cams up to a #2 Camalot, stoppers, and runners.

Pitch 6 (5.11) - Climb the seam with thin gear to a bolt on the arete. Then move right to a shallow, left-facing corner with a seam and follow it to a big ledge. Bring small gear, but some hand-size pieces are needed for the belay.

Pitch 7 (5.11) - Climb the right-facing corner past a bush under a large A-shaped roof. Exit the off-width roof and belay in the chimney above or at the top of the wall.

Write ups:
climbing.com/news/hotflashes/p...

alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswi...

Location 

The Chillumstone Gully trail begins after Devil's Lookout (park here) walk down towards South Chasm View, but just after a yellow road curves sign, look for a faint trail in the bushes. Descend the gully to just above the Chillumstone rappels, where the route is to left as you descend on a prominent buttress. Pent Up is in between the large chimney and Don't Count Your Lily Pads. Ascend gullies to the base of the route. Another option is to locate the route from above (the big chasm to the left of the route makes finding it reasonable) and fix lines.

Protection 

Double Set of Cams to #4 Camalot. Single set of stoppers. Extra hand size pieces would be helpful for the belays. One each #5 and #6 Camalot which are only used on the last pitch. Stoppers are only needed for pitches 5 and 6.


Photos of Pent Up Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2, Pent Up - Jack Jefferies.
Pitch 2, Pent Up - Jack Jefferies.
Jason Nelson on the crux pitch of Pent Up, the Bla...
Jason Nelson on the crux pitch of Pent Up, the Bla...
Jack Jefferies on Pitch 2 of Pent Up.
Jack Jefferies on Pitch 2 of Pent Up.
Topo and photo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo and photo.
Jason Nelson leads the Mr. Crumblies pitch of Pent...
Jason Nelson leads the Mr. Crumblies pitch of Pent...
Jack Jefferies on pitch 6 of Pent Up, the Black Ca...
Jack Jefferies on pitch 6 of Pent Up, the Black Ca...
Jason Nelson gets ready for the crux of Pent Up.
Jason Nelson gets ready for the crux of Pent Up.
Cody Sims on the crux of Pent Up, the Black Canyon...
Cody Sims on the crux of Pent Up, the Black Canyon...

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