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Penstemon Dome has a variety of bolted and traditionally protected routes from 5.5 to 5.12. The clean rock, height of the dome, and variety of grades; make this dome a "mandatory" destination for those visiting Courtright.
From the Maxon Parking lot, head down the 4WD trail until you see the creek on your right. Follow the creek upstream a few minutes then cross over and head uphill toward the southwest face of the dome. You can orient yourself by a large evergreen (pine?) tree that is directly in front of the dome. Most of the climbing routes are accessed by climbing the short 5.8 crack that is to the left of the tree. Access to the dome takes about 20 to 30 minutes.
2 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penstemon Dome:
No Zukes 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 470'
Captain America 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Penstemon Dome
No Zukes 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Penstemon Dome
Pitch 1: 3 possibilities. a) Direct start up easy crack to ledge below overhanging offwidth. Thrash up awkward offwidth or hump the nose. 5.10b. b) Direct start up same easy crack to ledge then traverse left at ledge and back around to crack to bolted anchors. 5.7. c) Use the 1st pitch of Captain America, work right at small ledge to same bolted anchors as above, above offwidth/nose. Recommended, 5.8, ~ 100'Pitch 2: Work 5.7 left facing dihedral system with some off width until you can step rig...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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