Penny Lane 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | FA: Keith Rajala, C. McCafferty (aid) 1975 FFA: Anders Ourom, John Arts 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006 |
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Above the crux on Penny Lane.
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher.
Protection Light rack with nuts
Location Top of the Fern Gully Trail.
BETA PHOTO: Climbers at the top of Penny Lane. Crime of the C...
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Upper Penny Lane
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Upper Penny Lane II
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'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
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By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008
| Climbed it in August 2007 and it is getting a little worn. Very fun! |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Um, as good as 5.9 handcracks get. Excellent stuff.
The rap bolts are way left of the climb. Easiest to build a small anchor on top and bring your second up. Be careful of not dropping rocks on the folks below when walking to the anchor. |
By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Oct 7, 2009
| Outstanding. I was laughing with glee the entire way up this fun route. |
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 26, 2010
| haha this one brings back memories. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2011
| awesome climb. to reiterate what Andy said, you have to build a gear anchor at the top of this climb. You can make due with a lg nut and some .5 camalots or big cam. then walk left and rap (dont knock pebbles down on everyone and watch your rope as it falls right over crime) |
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Fun fun fun. A bit bouldery at the start, then just great jams and feet the whole way to the top. |
By Sean H
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 6, 2012
| First 20 feet or so were the crux for me. Had to trust some smeary stemming moves to gain better jams. After that, the route was straight forward. |
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