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Above the crux on Penny Lane.
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This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher.
Light rack with nuts
Top of the Fern Gully Trail.
BETA PHOTO: Climbers at the top of Penny Lane. Crime of the C...
Upper Penny Lane
Upper Penny Lane II
'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008
Climbed it in August 2007 and it is getting a little worn. Very fun!
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
Um, as good as 5.9 handcracks get. Excellent stuff.
The rap bolts are way left of the climb. Easiest to build a small anchor on top and bring your second up. Be careful of not dropping rocks on the folks below when walking to the anchor.
|By Carl Rene Pelletier|
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Oct 7, 2009
Outstanding. I was laughing with glee the entire way up this fun route.
|By Conor Raney|
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 26, 2010
haha this one brings back memories.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2011
awesome climb. to reiterate what Andy said, you have to build a gear anchor at the top of this climb. You can make due with a lg nut and some .5 camalots or big cam. then walk left and rap (dont knock pebbles down on everyone and watch your rope as it falls right over crime)
|By Matt Hoffmann|
Apr 23, 2012
Fun fun fun. A bit bouldery at the start, then just great jams and feet the whole way to the top.
|By Sean H|
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 6, 2012
First 20 feet or so were the crux for me. Had to trust some smeary stemming moves to gain better jams. After that, the route was straight forward.