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Penny Lane
Routes Sorted
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Satan's slit T 
Clandestine Affair T 
Climb & Punishment T 
Crime Of The Century T 
Drain Evader T,TR 
Health Hazard T 
Kahoukers T 
Partners In Crime T 
Penny Lane T 
Popeye and the Raven S 
Power Windows T,S 
Quarryman T 
Red Rocket T 
Short People T 
Sunny Days in December T 
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 
Up, Up and Away T 
Werewolves of London T 
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 
Yorkshire Gripper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Penny Lane 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: Keith Rajala, C. McCafferty (aid) 1975 FFA: Anders Ourom, John Arts 1978
Page Views: 7,910
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (161)
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Basque climber Saioa near one of two lower cruxes...

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher.


Light rack with nuts


Top of the Fern Gully Trail.

Photos of Penny Lane Slideshow Add Photo
'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
Climbers at the top of Penny Lane.  Crime of the C...
BETA PHOTO: Climbers at the top of Penny Lane. Crime of the C...
Above the crux on Penny Lane.
Above the crux on Penny Lane.
Upper Penny Lane
Upper Penny Lane
Basque climber Saioa starting up Penny Lane
Basque climber Saioa starting up Penny Lane
Upper Penny Lane II
Upper Penny Lane II
Emma cruising the onsight
Emma cruising the onsight

Comments on Penny Lane Add Comment
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By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008

Climbed it in August 2007 and it is getting a little worn. Very fun!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Um, as good as 5.9 handcracks get. Excellent stuff.

The rap bolts are way left of the climb. Easiest to build a small anchor on top and bring your second up. Be careful of not dropping rocks on the folks below when walking to the anchor.
By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Oct 7, 2009

Outstanding. I was laughing with glee the entire way up this fun route.
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 26, 2010

haha this one brings back memories.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2011

awesome climb. to reiterate what Andy said, you have to build a gear anchor at the top of this climb. You can make due with a lg nut and some .5 camalots or big cam. then walk left and rap (dont knock pebbles down on everyone and watch your rope as it falls right over crime)
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun fun fun. A bit bouldery at the start, then just great jams and feet the whole way to the top.
By Sean H
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 6, 2012

First 20 feet or so were the crux for me. Had to trust some smeary stemming moves to gain better jams. After that, the route was straight forward.
By Mat Brunton
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Bottom 1/3 is the hardest; it's somewhat bouldery, the crack is thin, and the rock is polished and slick (likely from so much traffic). Anchor options exist: you can continue direct up the crack through lower angle terrain to a solid tree to sling (you can rap back to ground from here with a 70m), you can move left and use 2 bolts chain anchors above Crime of the Century (don't do this if someone is on Crime), or you can move even further left of Crime of the Century for another set of 2 bolt chain anchors.
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