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Middle Spire
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Anal Sex T 
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Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
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Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
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Penny Candy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 1990
Page Views: 1,326
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Me starting up "penny Candy." I remember it feelin...

Description 

This is the pitch above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer, which follows 3 bolts up the arete. I recommend skipping the intermediate belay and linking the pitches for a great 90ft pitch. You will most likely want a couple long slings on the first two bolts, if linking the pitches.


Location 

The arete above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer...


Protection 

3 bolts



Photos of Penny Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Josh starting the exhilarating rappel.
Josh starting the exhilarating rappel.
Here I am at what felt like the crux to me. It was a thin pinch to a bomber edge, but I skipped the insecure pinch and did a looong reach to the edge.
BETA PHOTO: Here I am at what felt like the crux to me. It was...
Alanna after having crossed the arete. To her, that was the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Alanna after having crossed the arete. To her, tha...
Celebrations are in order, my friends.
Celebrations are in order, my friends.
Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swinging into space across "Lean and Mean." Wheee!!!
Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swinging into s...
Comments on Penny Candy Add Comment
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By David Knowles
From: Palo Alto, California
May 22, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

Just fyi the hangers at the top anchor are spinning.

By Josh Cameron
Feb 17, 2011

After "Fear of Flying," my favorite route at Phantom Spires. Airy and exciting climbing followed by a fun rappel. We reached the ground with one 60m.

I gave the climb three stars since the exposure is so awesome.