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Penny Candy 

5.10a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 1990
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Me starting up "penny Candy." I remember it feelin...

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Description 

This is the pitch above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer, which follows 3 bolts up the arete. I recommend skipping the intermediate belay and linking the pitches for a great 90ft pitch. You will most likely want a couple long slings on the first two bolts, if linking the pitches.


Location 

The arete above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer...


Protection 

3 bolts



Photos of Penny Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Here I am at what felt like the crux to me. It was a thin pinch to a bomber edge, but I skipped the insecure pinch and did a looong reach to the edge.

BETA PHOTO: Here I am at what felt like the crux to me. It was...

Celebrations are in order, my friends.

Celebrations are in order, my friends.

Alanna after having crossed the arete. To her, that was the crux.

BETA PHOTO: Alanna after having crossed the arete. To her, tha...

Josh starting the exhilarating rappel.

Josh starting the exhilarating rappel.

Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swinging into space across "Lean and Mean." Wheee!!!

Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swinging into s...


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By David Knowles
May 22, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

Just fyi the hangers at the top anchor are spinning.

By Josh Cameron
Feb 17, 2011

After "Fear of Flying," my favorite route at Phantom Spires. Airy and exciting climbing followed by a fun rappel. We reached the ground with one 60m.

I gave the climb three stars since the exposure is so awesome.