The Library 

FA:  Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.4 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 75 feet Views: 141 page views Submitted By: rossp on Feb 15, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The Library route uses the large, obvious dihedral...

Description 

The start of this route has been blasted I think when they put in the railroad a hundred years ago. Make a few easy moves off the ground trending right, then step left into the dihedal. This is the crux and it's easy to protect with a couple of Camalots. Race up the dihedral (plenty of room for small nuts in the crack in the corner) to the small ledge. The "real" Library route stays left in the smaller dihedral up to Riverview ledge. But if there are top-ropers there, this will likely cross their route, so I most often step right and follow the broken crack straight up to the ledge

Location 

At the south end of Chickies Rock, just to the right of the main face. Look for the large, obvious right-facing dihedral.

Protection 

There are no bolts on Riverview eldge, but it's pretty easy to build a toprope anchor with some long nylon slings or else some hardware.When you set your toprope, please be aware that there may be 3, 4, even 5 topropes coming off this ledge so keep your anchor compact. You don't need slings running 30 feet out to each side.