|By The Stoned Master |
Jun 6, 2014
Kirby, I think the four classic cracks are Super crack aka Wise crack, Mr. Gutwrench, Pigs in Space (my personal favorite) and Glens Roof. Id definitly reccomend starting with these four. two quality non-crack routes I reccomend are angulation and surf the boogie; ones to the left of super crack and ones to the right. Then head to Brown Rocks for The North Face, Aretteisima and Southern Comfort. If youre going to lead these three I reccomend being super calculated with your pro because its all small/micro gear and not always the deepest of cracks.
Some direction: Head to the largest pillar/area known as Jims Throne (use pictures to identify, cant miss it), Super crack is just around the corner left of Jims and Glens Roof is the next formation left of Super Crack down the trail a very short ways. Mr. Gutwrench is right of Jims Throne maybe 40ft or so and Pigs in Space is farther down the trail, along the cliff base to the right of Gutwrench, maybe a 1-3 min hike or so.
First ascents are definitly possible, the question isnt if they are there itd just be the quality of the climb and the difficulty. For trad there isnt much left in the 9/10 range however Id check out Brown Rocks and Exploration wall. The overhanging, far right pillar/block on top of Exploration wall has never even been top roped as far as I know, it looks to take micro-gear in the thin seam for sure from my quick recon. I dont reccomend bolting here, but if were to thered be a few places and faces that are worthy of some and would go atleast in the 10/11 range...
If you want quality stone and a first ascent and are willing to boulder head to the Rune Stone area.
Have fun dude! Pond Bank isnt the greatest but you can have tons of fun while there!