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Pennies On The Patio 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Summer and Fall
Page Views: 2,510
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Nov 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Mary enjoying clean granite on 'Pennies On The Pat...

Route Description 

Take the stairs from the parking lot and head straight to the top! Once on top, take an immediate right (west south west) and down a few yards to the NPS Information sign by the railing (not to be confused with the "Stay Inside The Railing" sign.......how novel!). Just over the railing and down 100 feet is the 'Patio Terrace'. Rappel (single rope) or be lower off from the sign and down to the terrace.

Start back up by climbing the initial steep face with good features (chickenheads and small cracks....good pro to 2") to a small ledge. Once at the ledge, scale the face, passing three bolts on a knobby face (5.8). Climbing the right side of the route steepens the rating to 5.10a. This is a good climb to do laps on.

Top rope gear: LONG slings to back up on the rock behind the railing and a 60 meter rope.

Leading: (3) quickdraws, small to medium gear (#0 Metolius helpful), a few slings for chickenheads/knobs

Be prepared to fight off the "tourons" and their bottomless questions and comments: "Hey! How do you get the rope back up?", "Are you getting ready to bungee jump?", "Why don't YOU obey the signs posted?", "Can I take a picture with you and my kids?" AAARGGGGGGG!!!!


Photos of Pennies On The Patio Slideshow Add Photo
Bryan starting up pennies from Patio ledge
Bryan starting up pennies from Patio ledge
Pennies on the Patio 5.8
Pennies on the Patio 5.8
A twilght ascent....after all the tourists have le...
A twilght ascent....after all the tourists have le...
Climbing the Right side of the Pennies Route.
Climbing the Right side of the Pennies Route.
This is how we rigged our setup - We Built a 3 Sli...
BETA PHOTO: This is how we rigged our setup - We Built a 3 Sli...

Comments on Pennies On The Patio Add Comment
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By Kat Richards
Dec 3, 2014

I wanted to post an update here - since we just recently climbed this route (Nov 2014) and wanted to give people a heads up of what to expect.

The giant flat terrace that you see in the pictures is not what you rappel down to. At least it wasn't for us. With our 60m Rope, we were only able to rappel (just barely) to a small ledge. It looks like it may not make it... but it does.

We used 3 LONG Slings to build an anchor, a PAS to allow the top belay from below the anchors focal point.

Definitely a lot of tourists will watch you - but they were all super nice to us, and even hooked us up with some great pics!