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YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
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Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Aug 25, 2013

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The north end

Description 

From the a belay

Location 

Northwest buttress of the Jukebox formation in the Zona Rosa area.
From the belay, with the bolt & fixed pin, this is the line of bolts on the right.

Protection 

9 bolts & chain anchors.
  • ** Two or three 12" draws would be desirable as the 3rd, 5th, and 6th bolts are situated such that the lower carabiner on short draws interacts badly with large knobs.


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A trio
A trio

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By jeffrey thomas
Oct 20, 2013

Ten feet left of Diesel is a recent new line. I am told this was put up by the same accent team as Diesel. I played on this line four years ago. This was a super fun lead today. I enjoyed the added distance between the last three bolts. Spicy. Only bad note was the position of the massive anchor. Too far left of the last bolt. It should of been added to the right side. This current placement will force one to lower in the middle of the face,a no wheres-land. When lowering, realize, you must go the right for the solid ground. Seven bolts to the anchor. A comfortable three star 5.9. Jump on it!