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In an attempt to divide the main Canyon into a couple distinct areas, this area covers the climbs on both the right and left side of the canyon until the side canyon branches to the right (at Captain America). Watch out for snakes.
From the main directions, follow the road into Penitente & park in the parking lot. One main trail enters the canyon - follow it. The first routes (including Mysterious Redhead) will be on the right after a long 30 second walk. Please stay off closed trails.
58 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Penitente - Entrance Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penitente - Entrance Area:
Captain America 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Bucket Slave 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
That's the Way 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Lovesnake 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Wages of Sin 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Yah-Ta-Hei 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Mysterious Redhead 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Whipping Post 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Persephone 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Dos Hombres 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
No Regret 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
When the Whip Comes Down 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Forbidden Fruits 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Dive Right In 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
The Nature Of The Beast 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Mission in the Rain 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Prick Pocket 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Colors Of Emotion 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Cassandra 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'
Sitting in Limbo 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Penitente - Entrance Area
Color of Devotion 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Penitente - Entrance Area
As you enter the canyon, this route is located just around the corner from the first routes you will encounter (mysterious redhead, et al). It encompasses just about the most beautiful 25 feet of rock you have ever seen. It is the clean orange face with an arete on the right side, formed by a chimney. About 20 feet right of "Color of Emotion".In his guidebook, Bob D. eclectically describes the opening moves as a "B2 boulder problem". I don't know what that meant back in the day,...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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