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 ADVANCED
Hillbilly Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.6 dihedral T,TR 
Barnyard TR 
Bio-Degradable T,TR 
Booze Pigs S,TR 
Cascadia T 
Curse of the Drill S 
Drink to Puke T,TR 
End of the Innocence S 
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 
Generation Gap S 
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 
High School Romancer TR 
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 
Manic Depression S 
No Time to Linger  TR 
Organic Matter TR 
Pagan Rituals S,TR 
Penitent Crack T,TR 
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 
PWB Arete S 
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 
Sex Weed T 
Strong Faith T,TR 
Sunset Ascent S 
Swiss Cheese S,TR 
Turkish Revenge S,TR 
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 
Zig-zag crack T,TR 
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Penitent Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Knoernschild 8/30/2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,557
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Aug 30, 2008

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Pulling through the last few moves.

Description 

Penitent offers fun climbing. For the first half of the climb it's easy moving. When you reach the main crack about 20 ft from the top, that's where it gets a bit harder. The crack offers good finger and hand jams.


Location 

To the left of "Curse of the Drill". Start by moving up a slabby 10ft section. Then get into the bottom face/small crack. The small broken up crack has some nice finger jams. Move up to large ledge and continue up face using horizontal cracks and small feet. From here move into the main crack to top.


Protection 

standard rack. medium tri-cams



Photos of Penitent Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Scrubbin' away
Scrubbin' away
John K on first lead.
John K on first lead.
Penitent Crack 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Penitent Crack 5.7
John K topping out on Penitent Crack.
John K topping out on Penitent Crack.
Rhoads on right hand variation of P Crack.
Rhoads on right hand variation of P Crack.
Comments on Penitent Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 30, 2008

This climb was completely covered in moss and lichen. You couldn't see parts of the crack at the top from the ground. I spent about 2 hours scrubbing it clean. Then I sent it on sight.

It was a really fun climb. Offered good pro and fun moving.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 2, 2008

Nice Job JK!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 5, 2008

Thx James. I saw this route as a good opportunity to add another moderate climb to the Hollow. There aren't enough moderates in the area and I want more people to come here and climb so the routes stay cleaner.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 5, 2009

I lead this last fall and really enjoyed it. Especially the upper section. Way to go John. Fun to plug gear on this and it is all good and closely spaced...

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 22, 2009

Thx Burt. Glad to see others enjoying the route.

By Tradoholic
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I led the right variation of this today, 5.9 and "R". Best to be top roped I think but fun moves.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 15, 2010

Nice nick. I looked at that variation when I cleaned this. It looked very unprotected.