Penitent Crack 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | John Knoernschild 8/30/2008 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | John W. Knoernschild on Aug 30, 2008 |
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John K on first lead.
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Description Penitent offers fun climbing. For the first half of the climb it's easy moving. When you reach the main crack about 20 ft from the top, that's where it gets a bit harder. The crack offers good finger and hand jams.
Location To the left of "Curse of the Drill". Start by moving up a slabby 10ft section. Then get into the bottom face/small crack. The small broken up crack has some nice finger jams. Move up to large ledge and continue up face using horizontal cracks and small feet. From here move into the main crack to top.
Protection standard rack. medium tri-cams
Pulling through the last few moves.
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John K topping out on Penitent Crack.
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BETA PHOTO: Penitent Crack 5.7
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Scrubbin' away
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Rhoads on right hand variation of P Crack.
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| Comments on Penitent Crack |
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 30, 2008
| This climb was completely covered in moss and lichen. You couldn't see parts of the crack at the top from the ground. I spent about 2 hours scrubbing it clean. Then I sent it on sight.
It was a really fun climb. Offered good pro and fun moving. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 5, 2008
| Thx James. I saw this route as a good opportunity to add another moderate climb to the Hollow. There aren't enough moderates in the area and I want more people to come here and climb so the routes stay cleaner. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 5, 2009
| I lead this last fall and really enjoyed it. Especially the upper section. Way to go John. Fun to plug gear on this and it is all good and closely spaced... |
By Trad Nanny
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.7
| I led the right variation of this today, 5.9 and "R". Best to be top roped I think but fun moves. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 15, 2010
| Nice nick. I looked at that variation when I cleaned this. It looked very unprotected. |
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