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Joy and Tribulation T 
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Penis Chimney T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Penis Chimney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Harry Kent, Scott Kimball, 1976
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Sep 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This fun chimney route is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle, a buttress at the SE corner of the Bookmark. I'll spare all the obvious double entendres. Locate the start by hiking to the Bookmark and then going right around the large "flatiron" to a brushy gully (right of Romulan Territory and Backflip). The chimney begins on the right, about 25 feet up the gully. Secure 5.8 chimneying (funky pro without tube chocks) leads to the crux bulge/OW/stem. It's possible to get a #5 Camalot deep in the chimney below the bulge, but above, the crack is too wide, and a fall will slam you back into the flaring chimney. Very questionable small nuts and cams can be placed in a short crack above the bulge. From here three options exist: the most obvious continues up the tight chimney/OW (good small piece for the last hard move) to a trough underneath a huge block; walk under it and belay. Or, climb the outside of the block at 5.9. Another option traverses left on a narrow ledge (which looks scary to get onto) about 10 feet above the bulge to a 5.8+ crack.

In any case, one should move the belay up to a large block just above the gully on the west side of the pinnacle (which is by now evident), about 40 feet above the block capping the chimney, and below a steep 5.8 hand crack (with a bush). Finish by climbing the good but crystalline hand crack (and bring one of your wide pieces for the slot at the top!), and then climb up the exciting 5.7 ridge (scary for the second), left of a chimney, to the summit of the pinnacle. Belay from rappel slings. A 60m rope rappel will get you to the bottom of a gully to the east. From there, walk north across a slab and gain a bushy gully which leads back to the base of the route. With a 50m rope, two rappels (you may need to leave a sling on the second) or some scary downclimbing will be necessary.

Note: once finished with the chimney, there are a number of other alternatives to the original route. One can climb either of two south-facing, 5.8-5.9 cracks and finish on the summit ridge. Or, rappel to the west or east of the chimney (two ropes are helpful). There are several nests of slings in the gully to the west (and a new bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Backflip can be reached after one rap). There is also a 2-bolt anchor on the ledge to the south of the block that caps the chimney.

Protection 

Consider this climb runout without tube chocks. There are a couple of places where you can place large Camalots--I had a #4, #4.5, and a #5 (old sizes). With the addition of a couple of Bigbros (which Gillett recommends), the climb would be safe. Standard rack to #3.5 Friend otherwise.


Photos of Penis Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Most of the route, a Drake for scale.
BETA PHOTO: Most of the route, a Drake for scale.

Comments on Penis Chimney Add Comment
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By JPVallone
Aug 25, 2004

Very fun for a Lumpy chimney. I had a 4.5 and a 5 (old sizes). The 4.5 was left after pushing the 5 for a while. the 4.5 was quite tipped out when left. I think you woul be psyched to have two 5's and bring a light standard rack to a 3. The climbing is pretty secure and a solid leader at the grade will be ok with the runouts on a light rack. The left variation that Charles speaks of looks really good and is called the French Tickler 5.8 hands. Not as intimidating as it looks, but well worth it. I suggest taking it to the top if you have not been on the pinnacle before, other wise use the bolts on top of night on the town, Awkward getting into the rap, but conveinent. I don't recommend the gully between the bookmark and the pinnacle, I have seen many stuck ropes here.
By Lyont72
From: Foco, CO
Apr 9, 2012

So, I was just up at Lumpy on 4/8/12, and per beta from JPVallone, I had only a #5 BD with me thinking I could walk it if need be . . . . After getting my first piece in just before moving in to the chimney (0.3 BD ), I got through the first bulge and was nicely set in the chimney making my way up. After running it out 15 - 20 feet (could not get the #5 in at any point in there) and about to move around the next bulge (which means you need to moving out of the chimney, so you're close to being on the face), I still could not get the #5 BD in!!! I feel a #6 BD would have done the job or a #3 BigBro . . . . Which I did not have . . . . I am down for some run outs, but with a potential 60 foot groundfall, not so much!

Strongly recommend biger gear above a #5 . . . . Hope to get back up there next weekend and finish the climb . . . . After looking at what I was doing, I downclimbed back out of the chimney. Hands down though, it is a sweet climb if you like chimneys!!!

Hope this helps any one else looking to climb the Penis . . . . Don't get spanked by it like I did.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2012

It is super clear to me from the dates posted the JP was talking about the pre-C4 sizes (since he posted prior to their advent and also spoke of a 4.5) and you are talking C4 sizes since you mention a 6, which did not used to exist....
So really, you are suggesting the same thing.
I've never really cared for how BD handled the taxinomy of the re-sizing thing - it always leads to some confusion.

"Up to a #4?... You mean Camalot or Friend?"
"Uhh... Camalot."
"OK, new or old sizing?"

I've got an HB quadcam size 3.8. It's between the 3 and 5. I know exactly how big it is....
By slim
Administrator
Apr 11, 2012

...and the BD re-sizing hoses yet another poor bastard.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2012

I used two C4 #6's and a #3 Big Bro. Coulda put some more big gear in, but that protects it quite well. The left option is good!