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Road Cut, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack A No Go T 
Curvy Crack T 
Easy Street S 
Escargot T,S 
Herring Breath T 
Hit and Run S 
Itchy and Scratchy S 
Penguin Lust S 
Spaceman Spiff S 
Totem Pole S 
Transmogrifier S 

Penguin Lust 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Mischler, the 80's
Page Views: 1,467
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The brainchild of P.L.

2014 nesting closure MORE INFO >>>


Incredible "main" face of the Roadcut.

Killer technical pocket climbing. Sustained and thin. There are a couple of cruxes low; you'll need your footwork dialed to send them...

Save some juice for the top...rockfall may have made this a bit harder.


The "you just can't miss it" orange face. Starts off the highest ledge system at Roadcut.



Photos of Penguin Lust Slideshow Add Photo
Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)
Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)

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By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Classic, sustained route. This was luckily undamaged by the recent Totem Pile rockfall.
By Caliza
Sep 7, 2015

This is the hardest "5.12c" I have ever been on. It honestly does not feel that much easier than Warp Factor. 5.12d in my opinion. A classic nonetheless.
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