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Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)
Incredible "main" face of the Roadcut.
Killer technical pocket climbing. Sustained and thin. There are a couple of cruxes low; you'll need your footwork dialed to send them...
Save some juice for the top...rockfall may have made this a bit harder.
The "you just can't miss it" orange face. Starts off the highest ledge system at Roadcut.
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Classic, sustained route. This was luckily undamaged by the recent Totem Pile rockfall.
Sep 7, 2015
This is the hardest "5.12c" I have ever been on. It honestly does not feel that much easier than Warp Factor. 5.12d in my opinion. A classic nonetheless.
Oct 13, 2015
If you're a 5"2 light person with tiny fingers and toes (like me) then it's probably not 12c. More like 12a. Hardest part is getting the sequence dialed!