Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Road Cut, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack A No Go T 
Curvy Crack T 
Easy Street S 
Escargot T,S 
Herring Breath T 
Hit and Run S 
Itchy and Scratchy S 
Penguin Lust S 
Spaceman Spiff S 
Totem Pole S 
Transmogrifier S 

Penguin Lust 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Mischler, the 80's
Page Views: 1,523
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The brainchild of P.L.

2014 nesting closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Incredible "main" face of the Roadcut.

Killer technical pocket climbing. Sustained and thin. There are a couple of cruxes low; you'll need your footwork dialed to send them...

Save some juice for the top...rockfall may have made this a bit harder.

Location 

The "you just can't miss it" orange face. Starts off the highest ledge system at Roadcut.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of Penguin Lust Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)
Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)

Comments on Penguin Lust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Classic, sustained route. This was luckily undamaged by the recent Totem Pile rockfall.
By Caliza
Sep 7, 2015

This is the hardest "5.12c" I have ever been on. It honestly does not feel that much easier than Warp Factor. 5.12d in my opinion. A classic nonetheless.
By FelicityMuth
Oct 13, 2015

If you're a 5"2 light person with tiny fingers and toes (like me) then it's probably not 12c. More like 12a. Hardest part is getting the sequence dialed!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!