|Type:||Trad, 8 pitches, 400', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Steve Arsenault and Paul Doyle, September 1967. FFA Ed Webster and Ajax Greene August, 1976.|
|Submitted By:||bradley white on Oct 12, 2010|
|Comments on Pendulum Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 23, 2012
|Pulled a pin on pitch 3 that was manky. Also, replaced the sling on the pendulum.|
By burlap submariner
Jun 12, 2014
|It should def. be noted that when you traverse under the pendulum roof it its easiest to place a nest of gear in the roof or the horizontal crack at the base of the roof at its very end and down climb to the sidewalk ledge. When your second follows you they will leave this gear in place and down climb to you on the side walk ledge, the climbing here is solid 5.9 but the gear is good and essentially you are down climbing 5.9 with a top rope over head. When you start the crux pitch you now have a top rope for the 9 climbing you just down climbed.|
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 14, 2014
|Good point Burlap. The crux roof was originally freed, direct w/o going left and then back. Quite hard, maybe 5.12..going around,then over is easier, but scary|
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Aug 31, 2014
a couple of thoughts after adventuring up this climb. The climbing is generally fun well protected and consistent at 5.10. no super classic leads, and can be dirty, but an enjoyable adventure. There's 1, maybe 2 gear anchors and the rest are fixed, 4 of them being solid 2 bolt belays. Can bail pretty much anywhere on it.
P1. We went up the bolt ladder and stepped left and back into a groove with some fun crack climbing in the back, redirected tree belay for the anchor.
p2. the one real money pitch on the route, fun.
p3. After a little rambling intro you clip a bolt and step onto the left wall and continue up a thin crack. I've done this pitch twice now and for some reason have forgotten the beta. We ended up continuing up the corner on fun climbing until under the big roof, then placing a solid piece and traversing/ down climbing a bit to finish back on the original route. turns out this is climbing much of the 3rd pitch of lights in the forest and then traversing left back into pendulum.
p4. apparently this slab goes at thin 5.10 face climbing. We just used the fixed pin to pendulum across the slab to the next belay. The last followers lowered out from the starting bolt anchor.
p5. step left and pull some harder moves to gain some lower angled rock and then step left on to a slab by ramp. Down low there are two pins in the crack. the upper crack has a bashie pin and rurp in it. From the anchor it looks unprotect able. This pitch was dirty and only after some crack excavating while seconding did we find the second, more bomber pin down low. Finishes at a 2 bolt anchor.
p6. Surprisingly fun climbing! crawl and scootch across the ledge until your pushed off, some good jugs show up just in time. Good gear for the traverse. At the end, build an anchor in the crack in the roof and get lower or down climb the slab to a 2 bolt anchor on the side walk belay. As mentioned above, have your second lower or down climb from this anchor, leaving it and the top rope there for the next pitch.
p7. climb up the 5.9 ish slab on top rope, throw some gear farther out in the crack and go for it! Can be pretty easily aided through to keep the adventure at 5.10 A0.
p8. dirty meandering crack climbing takes you to the top and a 3 bolt anchor amongst a sea of cracks and bomber trees (Cathedral ledge, home of the most erratic bolt ethics in North America!)
all in all a good adventure!!
By stephen arsenault
Sep 25, 2014
I know this route never gets done this way, but on the 1st ascent, the big pendulum was quite fun. ( I never did one before). The crack you pendulum into is quite clean, and beautiful, which leads directly to the sidewalk ledge.
I placed a bolt on the slab, going up to the big roof, which possibly was taken away by ice fall, years later. I tried to lead this 5.9 slab a few years ago, without the bolt, and found it pretty scary.