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Wonder Bluffs
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Pencil Neck Geek 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Long and Keith Cunning, December 1979
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Start of the route

Description 

The Wonder Bluffs is an east-facing wall split by many crack systems, some of which are quite good.

Near the far right side of the wall and 5' right of an obvious left-facing corner is this straight-in crack which starts thin (crux) and slowly widens higher. The descent is either a walkoff to the climber's right or a rap from bolts located in the middle of the wall.

A nice place to escape the mobs found at so many easily approached crags. This is a good wall to work on crack skills with several other good routes nearby. It can get cold here in the winter if the wall is shady, but it is usually quite nice.

Protection 

Gear to 3"


Photos of Pencil Neck Geek Slideshow Add Photo
Midway up before crossing over to the crack just v...
Midway up before crossing over to the crack just v...

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By Mike P
Nov 22, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun climb! This with the other climbs on the wall make it worth the hike up here. There are rap slings at the top of the route.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Broken flake and short bouldery section gets you started, the crack is straight forward and line easy to spot from the base. Finger and hand size crack leads you to an area where the crack and gear peters out and you can transition right to another crack system and ultimately the anchor.

As of 11/28/11 slung slings and rings as anchor still in good condition.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Three cruxes for the price of one! Do a bouldery start on some suspect rock. From here there is a thin hands crack that rivals Blind Faith in the Valley, but it is only 1.37 moves long. Pro is good for the low cruxes then you think it is in the bag.... sorry.....

Up high at some point you need to move right to an elephants ear. I tried to move right a bit early. Probably 5.14b if done this way. Then I did the classic trade off of good thin pro instead of a good jamb. After hanging out in a full power Gaston for like 20 minutes and 3 blocks of chalk I finally moved up and reached out right to the big ear. From this point all the difficulties fade, you have a jug, you are in a solid stem and you can start talking shit again about downrating the pile. Not great rock, sorta cool moves, seemed plenty hard at my weight, and there in-situ slung horns with good slings for an anchor. Seems like the best tick on the crag.