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Uncertain Return T 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) T 
Unnamed area below and left of Wrangler, etc. T 
unnamed trad on wolf wall T 
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 19, 2010  with updates from Chuck Parks

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Another Steele sandbag, Penchant has some nice offwidth-to-hand crack climbing . . . if you can pull the start to get to it.

Starting below a prominent offwidth, make difficult moves through a thin crack system to gain a small ledge. Follow the offwidth as it narrows to a more manageable crack, then continue jamming and face climbing to the top.


Located near the right end of the Copout/Penchant area, about 20' left of Dance with the Devil.


Mostly medium gear, along with a spotter for the starting moves. Bolted anchors.

Photos of Penchant Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning of Penchant
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of Penchant
Getting up through the end of the mid section.
Getting up through the end of the mid section.

Comments on Penchant Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Dec 21, 2010

If you lead this you will need a small piece (stopper) to protect the opening moves or just boulder it out to a good jug, then plug something in.
By Curtles
From: Alabama
Jun 12, 2013

This route was called Pinch-It. As in pinch it off. Supposely the belayer had to no. 2 so the climber told him to "pinch it off" and keep him on belay.
By Lyle Dean
Nov 30, 2014

Kip Simmons and I did this route in about 1976 and the name is Pinch-It and the story about the belayer is correct.
By Brent C.
Mar 16, 2015

Nice mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing.

Felt harder than some of the 5.10a/b face climbs I've been on at Steele.

Novice climbers, be ready for a fight.
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