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Steele
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Penchant 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 19, 2010
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Penchant

Description 

Another Steele sandbag, Penchant has some nice offwidth-to-hand crack climbing . . . if you can pull the start to get to it.

Starting below a prominent offwidth, make difficult moves through a thin crack system to gain a small ledge. Follow the offwidth as it narrows to a more manageable crack, then continue jamming and face climbing to the top.


Location 

Located near the right end of the Copout/Penchant area, about 20' left of Dance with the Devil.


Protection 

Mostly medium gear, along with a spotter for the starting moves. Bolted anchors.



Photos of Penchant Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning of Penchant
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of Penchant
Getting up through the end of the mid section.
Getting up through the end of the mid section.
Comments on Penchant Add Comment
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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Dec 21, 2010

If you lead this you will need a small piece (stopper) to protect the opening moves or just boulder it out to a good jug, then plug something in.

By Curtles
Jun 12, 2013

This route was called Pinch-It. As in pinch it off. Supposely the belayer had to no. 2 so the climber told him to "pinch it off" and keep him on belay.