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By Anthony Anagnostou
Dec 24, 2008
a little more beta, for those who find themselves wandering the central mexico rock scene. once you get to bernal, attempt the maze of uphill side streets until you find yourself at the base of the rock. a few pesos will pay the parking fees.
the via ferrata descent probably feels like 4th class on the way up, but on the way down it might get your attention if you're not on top of things. its not a via ferrata with cables, protection, etc. mostly a seriously fun down-monkeying with fattie rungs through most (but not all) of the steep sections. a 60m rope will protect the entire climbing section if you want a belayed-downclimb, or you can rappel from chains at the slabby (crux?) beginning of the descent. there is an intermediate station if rap straight down, so im assuming you could rap with one rope, but i havent tried.
i found the climbing similar to classic moderate red rock (nv) stuff, plenty of things to hold onto on the gentle climbs i played on, and the rock is solid.
there is plenty of beta (in spanish) on xpmexico.com.
click on (respectively) roca: guias, querataro, pena de bernal
From: Littleton, CO
Dec 7, 2010
|There's also great bouldering around the base of this. The "via ferreta" is more like low fifth class soloing with a rung every 30 feet or so. Super fun!|
Jan 4, 2015
As of 01-2015, you can easily rappel straight down from the top of the via ferreta with a single 60m rope.
As of 01-2015, here's the descent from the summit of Pena de Bernal:
A) From the top of Bernalina, et al, walk past the crosses and then follow an obvious path down and left around a small cliffband.
B) Scramble down right and then left around another small cliffband to a saddle.
C) Carefully descend about 25 vertical feet down a low-angled slab from the saddle to the top of an obvious gully and the top of the via ferreta.
D) Rappel #1: At the top of the via ferreta and gully there are two sets of anchors - glued-in staples and traditional bolts with rings. Rappel straight down from either anchor, about 15-20m to a hanging rap station with traditional rings (there's no ledge at the anchor, so pre-rig some type of daisy chain/PAS so you can safely get off rappel).
E) Rappel #2: Rappel straight down to the base of the existing via ferreta (25-30m).
F) Down-climb some well-worn ledges (via ferreta rungs are missing) from the base of the via ferreta to gain the main hiking trail.
G) Walk down the main hiking trail about 5-10 minutes to regain the base of Bernalina, et al.