This volcanic monolith consists of a hard rhyolite rock resulting in great edges and chickenheads. It is located at the town of Bernal, and so is the approach trail. It is popular with hikers and climbers alike. The slabby east face is long and fun and the NE side has a via ferrata winding to the top, making for a fun downclimb. More info can be found on xpmexico.com
From the town of Queretaro, drive towards Mexico City along Hwy 57 to the exit marked: Pena de Bernal. Take this road for @ 30 min to the town and the Pena is plainly visible, wander to the back of town to a parking lot and the approach trail. Hike @ 15 minutes to the slabby east face or wander to the backside routes along the rock face of choice.
It was hard to say where the crux was, it was so much fun. Great holds, fat bolts and good climbing up a clean wall. The 4-7 pitches can be tricky due to the low angle and sparsity of bolts but look around....[more]Browse More Classics in International
a little more beta, for those who find themselves wandering the central mexico rock scene. once you get to bernal, attempt the maze of uphill side streets until you find yourself at the base of the rock. a few pesos will pay the parking fees.
the via ferrata descent probably feels like 4th class on the way up, but on the way down it might get your attention if you're not on top of things. its not a via ferrata with cables, protection, etc. mostly a seriously fun down-monkeying with fattie rungs through most (but not all) of the steep sections. a 60m rope will protect the entire climbing section if you want a belayed-downclimb, or you can rappel from chains at the slabby (crux?) beginning of the descent. there is an intermediate station if rap straight down, so im assuming you could rap with one rope, but i havent tried.
i found the climbing similar to classic moderate red rock (nv) stuff, plenty of things to hold onto on the gentle climbs i played on, and the rock is solid.
there is plenty of beta (in spanish) on xpmexico.com. click on (respectively) roca: guias, querataro, pena de bernal