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Pena Blanca 


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Lat, Long: 32.2239, -106.5979 Map
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 28, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Map

Description 

In the shadow of Hueco Tanks lies this lesser known and lesser quality area. Pena Blanca is a sprawling rock playground on the southern foot of the Organ mountains. There are scores of established boulder problems and potential for more. Much of the rock is of poor quality which keeps the area relatively free from the crowds seen at Hueco.

A few climbing resources exist but nothing has been published. Visit huecotanks.com/BCDetail.htm for more descriptions of the area. Also check out another developing e-guide at vcrux.com/penablanca.aspx (see comment by Lowell below).

There are a handful of short sport and trad routes, as well as top-rope problems that merit a visit. But what Pena Blanca has most of is bouldering, and it is through bouldering that this area will get known.

The area is currently designated as Wilderness Study Area by the BLM which restricts off-roading activities. Petroglyphs are found here and if you find some refrain from climbing near them.


Getting There 

When driving between Las Cruces and El Paso on I-10, Pena Blanca is clearly visible to the east. Take the Mesquite exit and head east. The paved road takes you buy a landfill and liquid waste site, then turns to a dirt road. When you are approximately due south of the rocks there are rough roads that lead to the different climbing spots. A 4WD vehicle is required to reach some of the parking areas.


Resources 

There is a collection of rough maps with names/difficulties of routes and problems at Pena Blanca. Contact Aaron Hobson (or see the above link and browse)to get them sent to you. They are by no means complete, and only give the user an idea of the large amount of climbing that occurs here.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pena Blanca:
Northeast Arete   V0     Boulder   South Central : Smith Family boulders
High Tales Protest   V0 PG13     Boulder, 14 feet   South Central : Smith Family boulders
3. White Lightning   V2     Boulder   The Volcano : The Rave
4. Rave   V3     Boulder   The Volcano : The Rave
1. Spy vs. Spy   V3     Boulder   The Garden : Romantic Spy Boulder
5. Peeping Tom   V5+     Boulder   The Garden : Romantic Spy Boulder
Speak in English   5.9+     TR, 50 feet   The Garden : El Diablo
2. Hole in the Wall   5.10     Sport, 40 feet   The Garden : Garden Spire
Steel Dihedral   5.10+     TR, 35 feet   The Garden : Hybrid Wall
El Diablo   5.11-     TR, 50 feet   The Garden : El Diablo
Zig-zag Crack   5.11-     Trad, 70 feet   The Garden : Garden Spire
1. Fortune Cookie   5.12     Sport, 50 feet   The Garden : Garden Spire
Browse More Classics in Pena Blanca

Featured Route For Pena Blanca
Coming out of the cave... heelhooks!!!

4. Rave V3  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : The Rave
Start back in the cave and connect with White Lightning....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Comments on Pena Blanca Add Comment
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 28, 2006

Once again I am having naming issues. I have some documents that someone put together about route names and which formation they are on (see the above link). However, I don't have specific information as to what the routes look like, where they are located etc... The problem I am faced with then is trying to match the names I have with the actual routes.

If you see that a route is named wrong SAY SOMETHING. Hopefully this site can be used to bring some of this information together.

By Joe Aberle
Jun 7, 2010

need to know where all bolt locations are at please just abeginner climb and just want to do it as safe as possible

By Lowell
From: El Paso, Texas USA
Oct 9, 2010

The guidebook is available at:
Guidebook

By Eugene Staley
Apr 8, 2012

I was out here this today, Easter, and when I was leaving I got pulled over by some cops looking for a group of people who had been reported shooting at each other. There were three cars over by the volcano, but I just want to let everyone know there is also legal recreational firearm use out here so be careful.