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DescriptionIn the shadow of Hueco Tanks lies this lesser known and lesser quality area. Pena Blanca is a sprawling rock playground on the southern foot of the Organ mountains. There are scores of established boulder problems and potential for more. Much of the rock is of poor quality which keeps the area relatively free from the crowds seen at Hueco. Getting ThereWhen driving between Las Cruces and El Paso on I-10, Pena Blanca is clearly visible to the east. Take the Mesquite exit and head east. The paved road takes you buy a landfill and liquid waste site, then turns to a dirt road. When you are approximately due south of the rocks there are rough roads that lead to the different climbing spots. A 4WD vehicle is required to reach some of the parking areas. ResourcesThere is a collection of rough maps with names/difficulties of routes and problems at Pena Blanca. Contact Aaron Hobson (or see the above link and browse)to get them sent to you. They are by no means complete, and only give the user an idea of the large amount of climbing that occurs here. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pena Blanca:
Northeast Arete V0 Boulder South Central : Smith Family boulders
High Tales Protest V0 PG13 Boulder, 14 feet South Central : Smith Family boulders
3. White Lightning V2 Boulder The Volcano : The Rave
4. Rave V3 Boulder The Volcano : The Rave
1. Spy vs. Spy V3 Boulder The Garden : Romantic Spy Boulder
5. Peeping Tom V5+ Boulder The Garden : Romantic Spy Boulder
Speak in English 5.9+ TR, 50 feet The Garden : El Diablo
2. Hole in the Wall 5.10 Sport, 40 feet The Garden : Garden Spire
Steel Dihedral 5.10+ TR, 35 feet The Garden : Hybrid Wall
El Diablo 5.11- TR, 50 feet The Garden : El Diablo
Zig-zag Crack 5.11- Trad, 70 feet The Garden : Garden Spire
1. Fortune Cookie 5.12 Sport, 50 feet The Garden : Garden Spire
Featured Route For Pena Blanca
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